38 THROUGH THE HEART OF PATAGONIA 



gloom and stampede them. He will follow a small mob and drive 

 them into some fold of the hills, such as, no doubt, he knows a 

 dozen of, and hide them there until, after several days, a reward is 

 offered by the owner. The Gaucho will then ride casually into 

 the camp, drink a matS, hear the story, and remark that he is well 

 acquainted with the country round. If asked whether he can give 

 any opinion as to the whereabouts of the lost horses, he says, 

 ' ' Quien sabe ? " but suggests they may be in a " canadon muy 

 limpio" to which horses often stray. In reply to any question 

 as to where the canadon may lie, he replies, " Over there," and 

 waves his hand half round the compass. He may add that he is 

 looking for seven mares of his own that strayed away last Friday 

 week or he would himself undertake the office of guide. If any 

 hint of payment be given, he goes on to say that, since his mares 

 have been lost so long they may remain lost a little longer, while 

 he guides and aids the travellers in their search, not, of course, for 

 the money's worth, that will not recompense him for the mares, 

 which may wander away altogether out of the province because of 

 his delay in looking for them, but because he would do a kindness 

 to persons for whom he has conceived a liking. So he acts as 

 guide, and, after a decent interval, finds the horses and pouches 

 his reward. It is an excellent trade, as there is no risk and plenty 

 of emolument to recommend it, and, in fact, it is a common enough 

 trick in Patagonia. 



I sat most of the night by the fire — except when my turn came 

 to ride round the horses, which we had placed in a small hollow — 

 writing up my diary by the light of the fire, and watching the men 

 ride in and out of the moonlight and the shadows. As the night 

 advanced the cold increased. The moon left us about 3.30 a.m. 

 and it became very dark. As I circled on my beat I passed by a 

 wild cat. Morning found the horses all right. We had, however, 

 to delay a little to allow of our men returning from Haddock's. 



On October 7 we fared forth once more upon our way, and 

 the ill-luck that had attended us at this first camp was with us up 

 to the last moment of the three days we spent there, for as 

 the waggon began to move off an alazan fell beneath the front 

 wheel, which passed clean over his near fore leg. Strangely 



