THE BATTLE OF THE HORSES 63 



pumas, for when it is lying on the ground the animals can easily 

 be tracked. At this season the shepherds of the estancias near the 

 coast attempt to clear the ground of their very unwelcome 

 visitors, the weapon most commonly used being the .450 revolver, 

 and the shot is often taken at a distance of less than ten paces. 

 The puma is very easy to kill, especially if the first shot is well 

 placed. It is the first shock which tells in the case of these 

 animals. 



Great sport could, no doubt, be had with the puma were he 

 hunted with a pack of dogs that would bay him and distract his 

 attention. The average hound of the country is, however, far too 

 wise to pit himself against such an animal, and will often even 

 refuse to acknowledge the scent. 



That night the lake, as seen from the camp, was wonderfully 

 beautiful. The waters were leaden-grey bounded by faint blue 

 hills, with soft mists of an unearthly green clinging about them. 

 The only sounds, to be heard were the wash of the ripple on the 

 shore and plashing of wildfowl. 



On October 23 we made as early a start as possible, and 

 pursued our way over very level pampa, which had not yet been 

 hardened by the sun of spring. We put up an ostrich {^Rhea 

 darwini) from his nest, and found three eggs. Presently there 

 appeared in the centre of the pampa, ahead of us, three little huts 

 of earth and three black cattle. Save for one gorge through 

 which the River Senguerr flows, and through which we afterwards 

 took our way, a perfect circle of hills of greatly varying heights 

 surrounded the small settlement. The huts belonged to a Welsh- 

 man named William Jones, who, with his wife and six children, had 

 trekked out here some six or eight months previously. 



One of the three huts, which was untenanted, Mr. Jones put 

 at our disposal, and after taking off the cargoes, Burbury and 

 Scrivenor accompanied me across to William Jones' home. Mrs. 

 Jones received us with hospitality and treated us to wa^^/with milk, 

 tea and scones, and we got a sight of ourselves in the looking- 

 glass. The wind of the pampas had removed all the skin from our 

 faces, and we were a good deal unlike the individuals who had 

 started from Trelew some four or five weeks before. 



