BACK TO CIVILISATION 177 



was tied up to the roof, a cracked tiny mirror hung from the 

 central pole. He seemed to have no provisions, only a bag of 

 yerba. He had recently killed a lion, for we found its skull. We 

 saw some half-wild cattle near by. It was a grey evening, and, as 

 always when out of the river valleys, the scene around was colour- 

 less basaltic desolation. 



On the 9th we struck three habitations. Strong squalls with 



^^^Si^-^^ia* 





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LA GAVIOTA 



gusts of rain accompanied us on our way. Sheep and cattle could 

 be seen in the valley below, and at last we stopped at an estancia, 

 where we bought farina, flour, biscuit, sugar, and mutton — luxuries 

 to which we had for some time been strangers. The owner allowed 

 us to sleep in some mud-houses by the river, and we enjoyed the 

 shelter, partial as it was. 



Our next day's march took us across four fords, and by evening 

 we reached an estancia, where I was kindly received and given 

 afternoon tea. Estancia is a word with a fine sound. It may, 

 however, mean anything from a real house, full of comfort, to a 

 mud hut. This estancia was a delightful change to us ; we could 

 sit on chairs and saw prints on the wall and a sideboard once more. 

 The night fell very cold, with an empty heaven overhead, but its 

 lower arcs set with slate-blue cloud. 



