FIRST PASSING THROUGH HELLGATE 269 



As we came in to the beach, three guanacos cantered down 

 and stared and neighed at us. The sight of these animals 

 brightened the prospect, as it was pleasant to see living 

 creatures in what had hitherto seemed to be an empty amphi- 

 theatre of hills. The bay where we had anchored was a shallow 

 lagoon, into which flowed a little stream that wound away out 

 of sight through a thin belt of forest over land comparatively 

 flat. This peninsula carried a light soil and good grass, but 

 bore the appearance of a spot that the winter would strike with 

 peculiar severity. The wood was all robU and Lena dura and 

 the scrub included califate-bushes, from which last, however, the 

 purple berl-ies had long since departed, much to our sorrow. 

 Huemules, guanacos, pumas, and the red fox gave evident signs 

 of their presence. I observed a pigmy owl {Glaucidium nanuni) 

 and several caranchos. In the evening, when speaking upon the 

 subject, Cattle informed me that several kinds of fish were to be 

 found in Lake Argentino. Often as we used to make our meal 

 of fish and farina (a compound in the concoction of which for 

 good or evil Bernardo stood alone), I used to regret my inability 

 to bring back specimens of the fish from this lake, but I had no 

 means of preserving them. 



" Fish and farina," indeed, became a standing joke with us. 

 We might threaten to blow each other up by the agency of the 

 launch's peculiar engines, and the threats would pass as nothing ; 

 but the expressed intention of any one. of us who proposed to go 

 and catch fish with a view to preparing a meal of " fish and 

 farina " soon became too much for the strongest and bravest 

 among us. As a matter of fact, the fish was far from tempting, 

 having a muddy flavour and being full of small bones, which 

 mixed themselves up inextricably with the farina.* 



That night shut down with a gale and much rain. The trees 

 groaned, and one close to us was blown down. It was with a 

 very thankful heart that I woke up in the middle of the storm 

 and reflected upon the glorious safety of our new-found harbour. 

 Next morning I was awakened sometime in the dusky grey of 

 dawn because a couple of Chiloe widgeon had come in close to 



''•■ Two kinds of fish came under my observation, but I understood there were four. 



