CHAPTER XXI 



HOMEWARD 



Winter comes on — Departure from Lake Argentine — Changed aspect of 

 country — Snow-clouds — Indian encampment — Race with the snow — River 

 Coyly — River Gallegos — Ford — Signs of civilisation — Gallegos — Taking pas- 

 sage in steamer — Lighted street — Good-bye to Bernardo — Meeting with 

 Mr. Waag and Mr. Von Plaaten Hallermund on the Elena — What Patagonia 

 taught me. 



A FORTNIGHT before we started there was a couple of feet of snow 

 on the high pampa. Beside the lake it had been blowing heavily, 

 and storms of sleet followed each other in dreary succession. 

 Every morning we saw the white cloak of winter throwing its 

 snowy folds lower and lower upon the mountains. The severe 

 season of the Cordillera and Southern Patagonia was fast shutting 

 us in ; already the Pass to Punta Arenas was closed feet deep in 

 snow, and our only outlet for the south lay towards Gallegos. It 

 had been my wish to remain as long as possible in the neighbour- 

 hood of the Andes, but I had overstayed the utmost limit I origin- 

 ally set myself, and now there was nothing for it but to make a 

 rush for the coast while the journey could still be made. 



On May 15 we started in heavy rain. The horses were in 

 excellent condition ; indeed, they were too fat, for of late they had 

 not had enough exercise to prepare them for a very trying journey. 

 We took three cargueros besides the horses for riding, and the 

 party consisted of Mr. Cattle's shepherd, George Gregory, Bernardo 

 and myself At the second camp Gregory was obliged to turn 

 back, as his horses — a troop of colts — had wandered during the 

 night. This was at the River del Bote ; from there Bernardo and 

 I went on alone. We found the aspect of the country much 

 changed since we had crossed it three and a half months previously. 

 The orreen grass had grown yellow, the streams and the lagoons 



