DAHLIA 



THE BULB BOOK 



DAHLIA 



tion as a rule in a greenhouse ; even 

 then such species will never be more 

 than interesting relatives of the more 

 popular garden varieties. 



The chief value of the garden Dahlia 

 consists in its bold appearance, and 

 the great showiness of its blossoms 

 during the late summer and autumn 

 months in the open air. Dahlias will 

 grow well in any good garden soil that 

 has been deeply dug and enriched 

 with plenty of well-decayed manure. 

 The best results, however, are secured 

 in a heavy loamy soil that has been 

 treated in the same way. As it is 

 generally unsafe to put the plants out 

 till the end of May or early in June, 

 according to the season and locality, 

 the sou may be prepared a few weeks 

 in advance for their reception. The 

 distance apart should be regulated by 

 the natural size of the different 

 varieties. Generally speaking, from 

 4 to 6 ft. should be allowed every way 

 between plant and plant when Dahlias 

 are grown in formal beds, and even 

 more space may be given with advan- 

 tage. Indeed, nothing is gained by 

 overcrowding — except weak, "leggy" 

 plants, which, owing to the lack of air 

 and light, are unable to produce 

 blossoms of average size and substance. 

 Almost any aspect will do for Dahlias 

 so long as it is open and free from the 

 shade of overhanging trees; but an 

 aspect facing between the south-east 

 and south-west is generally warmer, 

 brighter, and more sheltered, and 

 gives the best results. 



Staking. — Prior to planting, it is 

 advisable to drive a stout stake into 

 the hole, the stake being long enough 

 to allow 5 or 6 ft. to stand out of the 

 ground. The young plants, if raised 

 from seeds or cuttings, or the old 

 tubers and shoots, are then placed in 

 position, the fine crumbled soil being 

 carefully worked in around the roots, 

 and trodden down firmly but gently. 



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Tying. — As growth advances, the 

 main stem is tied to the stake from 

 time to time. The best branches or 

 side-shoots are retained, and, being 

 brittle, should be looped up to the 

 central stake when necessary, to 

 prevent the wind from breaking them 

 down. In addition to the central 

 stake, it is also a good plan to place 

 four smaller ones on the outside so 

 that main stems may be tied to them 

 to render the whole plant stead 

 against the wind. All other weak 

 shoots likely to overcrowd the centre 

 should be pinched out at an early 

 stage of their growth. In this way 

 the plants will have an abundance 

 of air and light — the two things so 

 essential to enable the leaves to 

 assimilate the carbonic acid gas from 

 the atmosphere. 



Mulching and Feeding. — ^As Dahlias 

 are gross feeders and great evaporators 

 of water, they require an abundance of 

 moisture at the root. A soU that is 

 naturally heavy, but well- worked and 

 manured, wiU not require so much 

 watering as one that is light and 

 sandy in its nature. The grower 

 must take these points into considera? 

 tion if he requires to secure exception- 

 ally fine blossoms. It will always be 

 advantageous, especially in hot dry 

 summers, to keep the surface soil well 

 stirred frequently with the hoe. This 

 will check the evaporation of moisture 

 from the root region, and will con- 

 sequently save a good deal of watering. 

 Further benefit may be secured by 

 placing a thin layer of old manure or 

 even a layer of lawn-grass clippings 

 over the stirred soU. 



Exhibition Blooms. — ^As almost 

 every amateur who takes an interest 

 in Dahlias likes to test his cultural 

 skill, he pays special attention to the 

 following details. In addition to 

 planting in good rich soil, properly pre- 

 pared and manured, plenty of space, 



