LIA 



THE BULB BOOK 



DAHLIA 



ling out the superfluous shoots, thinly about February or March, in 



frequent use of the hoe, and 

 hing with manure, he also feeds 

 ilants when coming into blossom 



weak liquid manure two or 

 i times a week, especially in hot 

 seasons. Then he does not allow 

 i.nt to develop all its buds. Only 

 best of these are retained, the 

 rs being pinched out so as not 

 bsorb food that will then be 

 lable for the others. When the 

 ers are openiag they may possibly 

 oo early for a particular exhibi- 

 . It will then be necessary to 

 .6 them in some way, to retard 

 opening of the florets. This is 

 s either by erecting a canvas 

 3n over the plants, or individual 

 er-heads may be protected by 

 ing over them some of the 

 me" canvas shaders that are 

 able up and down a stake to 

 required height. They not only 

 Le the blooms from the sun, but 



also protect them from wind 

 heavy rains. 



Lowers for exhibition should never 

 !ut at midday— but always either 

 ' early in the morning, or, better 

 , about an hour before twilight 

 day before they are required. 

 3 far as artificial or chemical 

 lUres are concerned, one of the 



to use is basic slag. A sprink- 

 of this slow-acting manure over 

 soil at the time of planting will 

 i up its phosphates just about 

 time the buds begin to appear, 



when a little stimulant is 

 reciated. 



EOPAGATION.— Dahlias are easily 

 eased in three ways — (1) from 

 Is, (2) from cuttings, and (3) by 

 ding the root-stocks. 

 3eds should be saved, when 

 oughly ripe, only from the very 

 varieties in any particular 

 ion. They should be sown 



pots, pans, or boxes of light, sandy, 

 rich soU, in a greenhouse with a 

 temperature of 60° to 70° F. They 

 soon germinate, and when the seed- 



Fio. 117.— Dahlia, seedlings. 



lings are about 2 ins. high, each one 

 should be placed in a 3-in. pot in 

 a similar compost. If grown on 

 close to the glass, and with plenty 

 of air and light and a much lower 

 temperature, they will be ready for 

 planting in the open air about the 

 end of May or early in June, as 

 already stated. It may be as well 

 to mention that special varieties can- 

 not be expected to come true tc 

 character if raised from seed. Suet 

 must be propagated by means ol 

 cuttings or division. 



To secure a supply of good cuttings 

 the old tuberous roots with pieces oi 

 old stems attached should be taken 

 from their winter quarters aboul 

 February or March, and placed in 

 a temperature of 60° to 70° F 

 They should be slightly covered witl 

 rich gritty soil, or placed in coco-nul 

 fibre or leaf -mould close to glass, 

 and sprinkled every day. In this 

 way stout, sturdy shoots soon appeal 

 from the base of the old stems just 

 about their junction with the old 

 tubers. When the shoots are aboul 

 3 ins. long they should be severed 

 with a sharp knife just beneath a 



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