HIPPEASTEUM 



THE BULB BOOK 



HIPPEASTEUM 



by crossing H. vittattmi with H. 

 Reginae. This hybrid was called 

 Johnsoni, after its raiser. In 1830 

 Mr de Graaf of Leiden began to raise 

 hybrids, using such forms as H. 

 Johnsoni, H. crocatum, H. fitlgidwn, 

 and H. vittatum in the process. 

 Later on when U. pardinum was 

 introduced in 1861, and H. Leopoldiin 

 1869, fresh blood was introduced into 

 the already existing hybrids, and a 

 more vigorous and floriferous race was 

 produced, chiefly owing to these two 

 species from the Andes of Peru. 



When it is intended to cross any 

 two particular forms of Hippeastrum, 

 the versatile anthers should be re- 

 moved from the tips of the long, 

 fleshy, up - curved stamens as soon 

 as ever the flower is sufficiently open 

 to permit of the operation; two or 

 three days later the three - parted 

 stigma may have ripe pollen from 

 another desirable variety placed upon 

 it, the process being repeated two or 

 three days in succession to secure 

 perfect fertilisation. The seed-pod 

 at the base of the flower continues to 

 enlarge, and in due course the blackish 

 shining seeds are perfectly ripe. They 

 should then be sown about | in. apart, 

 either in well-drained pots or pans of 

 rich gritty loam, covering them with 

 about I in. of soU. The seed-pots 

 should be plunged in a hotbed, and 

 the night temperature of the house 

 should not fall below 60° F. Germi- 

 nation takes place in a week or so, 

 and three or four weeks from the 

 date of sowing the little plants should 

 be carefully lifted and transferred 

 either singly in very small pots or 

 "thimbles," or about a dozen into a 

 6-in. pot, using a compost of rich and 

 gritty loam. The little bulbs then 

 begin to swell, and all the plants 

 require is attention to watering, 

 giving plenty of light and air, but 

 at the same time maintaining a humid 



atmosphere. In winter, the young 

 plants, although evergreen, will 

 require less water, and a lower 

 temperature, about 55° F. at night. 

 Soon after Christmas they should be 

 potted up singly into small pots, or 

 three into a 5-in. pot. They are then 

 grown in the same way as advised 

 above for older-established bulbs for 

 another year, when they should be 

 repotted, using pots in accordance 

 vsdth the size of the bulbs. In this 

 way fine flowering specimens will be 

 produced by the end of two years, or 

 three years at the outside. 



Hippeastrums are subject to attacks 

 from aphides, red spider, thrips, scale, 

 and mealy bug. all of which can be 

 kept at bay by judicious syringings 

 with quassia and tobacco solutions, 

 and by vaporising the houses 

 occasionally. Sometimes the bulbs 

 rot at the base, owing to irregular 

 watering, too much or too little. 

 Consequently, to avoid this, water 

 should be given when necessary, and 

 the drainage should always be perfect. 

 Sometimes the bulbs are attacked 

 by the Eucharis mite (HMzoglyphm 

 Rohini), minute pests like tiny grains 

 of white sand, accompanied by red 

 patches on the roots, or other parts of 

 the bulbs. If the bulbs are not too 

 far destroyed, the injured roots and 

 scales should be cleared off and 

 burned. The bulbs should then be 

 washed well with either sulphur and 

 water, paraffin emulsion, carbolic acid, 

 lysol, cyllin, or liver of sulphur. When 

 the surface is dry the bulbs should be 

 firmly potted in fresh soil, and started 

 into growth in a warm moist atmo- 

 sphere. 



Although fancy names are given 

 to pet seedlings, they are of short 

 duration, being replaced by newer 

 favourites in due course. It is better 

 to consult a current catalogue for a 

 list of the latest varieties. 



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