"KENT, THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND." 47 



Practical Hints on Planting, Pruning, &c. 



Trees received during frost should (without unpacking) be placed in a warm cellar or frost-proof house 

 till the return of suitable weather for planting, and thus treated will take no harm. Trees should not have 

 their roots dried by the wind or sun. In planting, the small fibres should be well spread out, and the main 

 coarse roots slightly shortened with a sharp knife ; any injured roots should be out clean away. Plums, 

 Peaches and Nectarines may be pruned back the first year of planting, in April ; and, if planted early, 

 Apples, Cherries, Apricots, and Pears as garden trees, may be treated in the same way, but they generally 

 succeed better if allowed to grow for a season without pruning. In soil already rich, no manure need be put 

 in with the roots at planting time, but a mulching on the surface (about 3 feet surface round the stem) will 

 be very beneficial. The fibres should be well enveloped in fine soil, and the tree firmly staked at once. Never 

 plant a tree deeply, it is safer to err at the other extreme. In wet soils plant on the surface and make a 

 mound over the roots of the tree. Should the soil prove poor, some well-decayed manure should be mixed 

 with it at planting time. It is important that trees should be, pruned with a good sharp knife (see page 49). 

 The pruning scissors and Secateurs will be found very suitable for summer nipping, as well as ordinary 

 pruning, while the French parrot-billed shears save labour in October root pruning. 



It is very difficult to give general rules for pruning in a catalogue, and many Apples and Pears will not 

 fruit under the hard cutting necessary to form handsome Pyramids, without corresponding attention to the 

 roots. "We should advise, where that has been tried without fruit resulting, that the trees be pruned partially 

 for a time, when they will probably become fruitful. As many bear on the extremities of the shoots, the 

 special habit of each kind should have the pruner's attention. If a tree becomes fertile it continues so. The 

 set shape should give way to its natural habit if that means fruitfulness. If half as much attention were 

 bestowed on the roots as is given to the summer and winter pruning, a better state of things would be seen 

 in most gardens. 



Cordon, Espaliers, Pyramids and Wall Trees should not be pruned too early, as this induces a second 

 growth. We consider the first week in August a good time. 



Late Planted Teees. — It is a capital plan to dip the roots in a thick soup, made of clay and earth 

 (puddling), before planting; this adheres to the roots and assists them in resisting spring droughts. 



Pruning Orchard and Plantation Trees. 



If these are planted before Christmas, Plums and Damsons may be pruned the following March ; but 

 after many years' experience, we consider that they, as well as Pears, Apples and Cherries, are more likely 

 to form healthy growing trees if left unpruned for a year. Our reason for this is that the foliage is earlier 

 on unpruned trees and consequently more root power is developed; after a summer's growth the tree, 

 when pruned back, will make long and strong shoots, which will form a good foundation ; as looking to 

 future profits, it is much better to form a TREE before fruit checks growth. Trees heavily pruned when first 

 planted only make useless spray, and should such form fruit buds, the after growth of the tree is checked for 

 years. Orchard trees planted after January should not be pruned at all. 



Black and Red Currants may be pruned the first year of planting, and Gooseberries the same year 

 if set before January ; otherwise let them grow a year without pruning. Raspberries should be cut back to 

 2ft. at planting time. 



Keeping Fruit. — A cool even temperature is best for this purpose. We have had great success in 

 preserving our Pears and Apples in a cheaply constructed Fruit House, set on the soil, made of match 

 board, and thickly thatched. We shall be pleased to send direction for building a Fruit Room, price 2/6. 



Re -Grafting. 



In many orchards there are large free growing trees that seldom crop, or which produce poor fruit. 

 Such would be fine stocks to graft upon, and would bear fruit in two years. Those kinds named in our select 

 lists would be suitable for this purpose. The old trees should be headed back in February, purchase the 

 grafts then, and lay them in soil until wanted for grafting at the end of March or April. 



Grafts in February or March. 



Prices for Grafts for garden use, except new or scarce sorts at higher prices, in small lots, will be 3/0 

 per dozen; where 25 or 100 of each ace required special prices will be quoted. New sorts are 1/0 each 

 where tree are quoted at 2/6 each, and so on in proportion. 



BIG TREES. — To West of England Plantebs. — In these districts it is the custom to plant very old 

 and strong wooded trees, and G. B. & Co. would call attention to the fact that this is exactly the wrong way 

 to raise an orchard . In these large examples the best fibrous roots are gone, and the trees suffer for years 

 from removal. An Orchard tree of 3 to 5 years is far better ; such examples have young active roots and 

 take to the new situation at once if properly staked, and after a year's growth they should be pruned back, 

 and will then beat the " old style trees " both in growth and fertility. So much is this the case that our best 

 Market Growers will not plant trees over 2 years old. 



Tbees foe the North — from us. — A County Council Lecturer writes: — "I am glad to say that I 

 have exploded the fallacy of trees from the South being unsuitable for Northern districts. The Fruit Trees 

 from your Nurseries have done remarkably well, and beaten those from elsewhere." This is simply because 

 a well ripened tree can be planted anywhere with success, 



