GEOEGE BUNYABD & CO., MAIDSTONE. 63 



A FEW HINTS ON ROSE CULTURE. 



Roses are too often crowded into borders filled with shrubs and herbaceous plants. The " Queen of 

 Flowers " resents this treatment and refuses to unfold her charms. The best plan is to make separate beds 

 for Roses, away from the shade of trees and in the best positions in the garden, reserving the warmest spot 

 for the Teas. The ground should first be trenched deeply (2 to 3 spits), adding the richest manure available 

 (say cow and horse dung), which should be mixed in the soil as the work proceeds, and if clayey the bed 

 should be drained ; if sandy and light, procure some heavier soil and mix it with the manure, taking out the 

 original soil to make room for the fresh material ; lay the land up roughly for the winds and frost to 

 improve it. 



Presuming that the summer notes have been consulted and the desired trees ordered : on arrival they 

 Bhould be at once unpaoked, and if dry immerse the roots in a pail of water for six hours, then prune the 

 roots back sparingly and plant at once in position, taking care to envelope the roots with fine soil and to 

 plant them firmly and not too deeply, say place the " bud " of dwarfs two inches under the soil ; stake the 

 standards, and if the dwarfs are strong cut off half of the coarse growths, then mulch over the bed six 

 inches thick with half rotten stable manure, and leave it so until the month of March. In case of Dwarf 

 Teas it is best to earth them as one would potatoes, coTering the lower six inches of the growth with earth, 

 and laying on some mulching afterwards. If standard Teas are planted, protect the heads by tying in 

 some Bracken or Spruce Fir boughs. If the planter has attended to these particulars he can rest till the 

 middle of March, when weather permitting, and all fear of severe frosts being over, the standard and dwarf 

 H.P.'s can be pruned ; the Teas being left till the first week in April ; and at that time the earth can be 

 removed from the dwarfs and the cover from the standards. 



In pruning, for a general rule, cut hard back to an eye pointing outwards all the kinds that grow 

 strongly, and do not cut the weaker growers quite so hard. If roses are only wanted for decoration, the 

 wood can be left a little longer. New growths which will interfere with the admission of light and air in 

 the centre, can be removed to encourage the promising shoots (say end of May). After pruning is done 

 the winter mulch may be lightly dug in and the beds raked down for the summer. 



In Climbing Roses the long summer shoots should be tied in, and at pruning time tip them back say 

 two feet, and then cut away as much of the old and weakly wood as can be spared, as it is from the vigorous 

 young shoots the best flowers are taken. 



With Roses on walls it is best to take them down, then prune and regulate the growths, and replace them. 



Treat Pillar Roses in the same way ; Banksian Roses are best pruned back after they flower. 



The Mosses, Provence and Summer Roses only require superfluous old shoots removed in summer (after 

 blooming) and then tip the shoots slightly back in March. The Austrian and Penzance Briars require the 

 same treatment, long shoots being left almost entire, till their glorious flower is over. China Roses are 

 best cut hard back, leaving all young wood. 



Watering. 



If the beds have been thoroughly made they need not be watered until May, and only then in very dry 

 weather, but growers for exhibition should prepare some liquid manure and nse once a fortnight, with pure 

 water between times, but only when the soil is dry. Syringing in the evenings of warm days is beneficial. 



Summer Cultube. 



As soon as the flowers fade pick them off, and after July the strong shoots may be shortened a little 

 when a second growth will give flowers in Autumn ; some judgment is required in this matter, as many of 

 the stronger growers will not stand this treatment, but such free kinds as La France and Marie Baumann 

 benefit by it. 



In Villa Gardens it is a necessity to have other flowers in the Rose beds, and if the borders are freely 

 manured in November and well and deeply dug, they give fair results. Where planted on grass some 

 manure should be dug in in November, and a top dressing of Clay's or other fertilizer scratched in and well 

 watered will serve to feed the plants in Summer. 



Time toe Planting. 

 Where it can be done the end of November is the best season, or at any time in the winter when the 

 ground is in good condition. When Roses cannot be planted till March they should be watered in and the 

 roots "slubbed," that is, some clay or soil made into a thick soup should be applied by dipping the roots 

 into it ; this prevents droughts affecting them ; late planted Roses should not be pruned back till a month 

 after planting, when the roots will be taking^to the new soil. 



Insects. 



Caterpillars and Maggots must he destroyed by hand picking ; Green fly is easily got rid of by syringing 

 with the following mixture, Quassia 4 ozs. boiled in 4 quarts of water, adding 2 ozs. soft soap, and then mix 

 well with 2 or 3 gallons clear warm water. 



Do not syringe when the sun is shining on the Roses, it is well to apply the dressing in the evening and 

 syringe with clear water early the next morning, to remove the dead Aphides and wash off any soapy 

 appearance. 



Red Rust is not readily cured, but as it comes after flowering time and is not a permanent injury, it 

 need not cause anxiety. 



The Best Book on Roses. — Without doubt, the most practical and copious work yet published, is that 

 by the Rev. A. Foster-Melliar, the noted Rose Amateur. It is a delightful book, full of vigour and research, 

 and is strongly recommended to lovers of the " Queen of Flowers," Post free, 8/6. 



