THE FIG. 66 1 



fertile seeds, this method of propagation is rarely used. If 

 the seeds of imported figs are separated by washing, and those 

 that sink in water planted tinder glass in fine loam, most of 

 them will soon germinate, and may be set out in nursery the 

 following year. They should bear in three years, but several 

 years more are required fully to establish their qualities. 



Cuttings. — The usual method of obtaining plants is by cut- 

 tings, generally six to eight inches long ; those with a heel, or 

 layers beg^inning to form roots, are the quickest. Cuttings 

 may be made of the young, well-ripened wood any time be- 

 fore the buds start in spring, and if tied in bundles and in- 

 verted until the butts are calloused there will be fewer failures. 

 If wood be scarce, single-eye cuttings may be rooted with 

 proper care. Trees get on more rapidly if planted as cut- 

 tings where they are to grow. When transplanted they will 

 often remain dormant, sometimes for several years, until the 

 old roots are replaced by new ones. Better cut the old roots 

 off quite close and head back the stock to a foot or two above 

 the ground, which will cause it to grow sooner. If a deep and 

 wide hole is excavated where the tree is to stand, and filled 

 in with rich earth mixed with good compost, the growth will 

 be greatly accelerated. This filling should be allowed to 

 settle, and the cutting planted in a slanting direction in the 

 centre with clean, fine sand tightly packed about its base, then 

 mulched and supplied with water if the weather is dry. 

 When carefully done there will be few failures, and some of 

 these cuttings may produce several figs in the following fall, 

 and begin to bear freely in two or three years. 



Grafting and Budding. — Where trees are barren or shed their 

 fruit, they may be grafted or budded. This is not generally 

 rscommended, for the reason that trees which have been 

 worked over sucker freely and constantly. In grafting, all 

 excised parts must be coated with hot wax thoroughly to ex- 

 clude the air. Common shield budding is successful, if the 

 edges of the thick bark are pared down a little, and narrow 

 strips of waxed cloth wound around tightly and closely. An- 

 nular budding, as practised on the pecan or hickory, is pre- 

 ferred by some. This is done during the fall in sprouts about 

 the size of one's finger, which are made to grow by cutting 

 oft the limbs to be worked and rubbing away all subsequent 



