19143 In Macedonia 



Dzumaia is a charmingly situated town, mostly Dzumaia 

 burned, however, by the Greeks, so that the business 

 section mainly consisted of temporary sheds. One of 

 the few remaining houses was the small "Hotel de 

 Paris," run by an old woman and a young boy. 

 Accommodations for the night were scanty and plain, 

 without meals, but the rooms were clean, a quality 

 which disappeared farther south. The dozen or two 

 Turks who had not fled when war began seemed 

 largely occupied with hunting shade in which to rest. 



Near Simetli the following morning we noticed for Turkish 

 the first time a Turkish cemetery, each tombstone ^^'^''''^^ 

 formerly exhibiting on its summit the kind of cap its 

 owner had been privileged to wear in life, and thus 

 carrying over the principle of caste into the next 

 world. Most of the stones had originally borne a 

 semblance to the ordinary red fez of the Moslem; 

 a few, however, had more elaborate turbans. But, so 

 far as I saw, every one had been knocked off by 

 Bulgarian iconoclasts. 



Throughout the country the forests were destroyed, 

 leaving little but brush and that only in ravines and 

 on hills not worth cultivating. Everywhere Islam 

 seems to have had a grudge against the woods. In 

 the thickets along the river grew numerous lilac Tiuiuac 

 bushes, and it was interesting to see this familiar '^^^°'^' 

 friend of the dooryard growing wild amid tangled 

 shrubbery. The many streams of the region are 

 crossed for the most part by so-called "Turkish 

 bridges," made by cutting down the bank on either 

 side and paving the ford with large blocks so as to 

 produce a broad, shallow crossing. 



All along the Struma in arable districts we saw a 

 touching sight of the effects of war — three poles 



n 587 3 



