HOW TO FEED A LAWN 57 



be more economical than artificial fertilisers, 

 which will leach out. On heavy soils a chemi- 

 cal fertiliser will answer. The objection to 

 the use of stable manure is the risk of carry- 

 ing in weed seeds, which can only be avoided 

 by seeing that the manure is well rotted. The 

 proper quality is not easy to get, and rather 

 than run any risk it would be better to rely 

 on turning under a green crop to supply the 

 humus. This may he accomplished by sow- 

 ing either cowpeas or crimson clover. Ground 

 bone (3,000 pounds to the acre) may then be 

 mixed in when harrowing and raking, and, if 

 there is a tendency to acidity, add lime. 



Another formula that has given satisfaction 

 is: 



Lime superphosphate i cwt. 



Guano i cwt. 



Bonemeal i cwt. 



Never add pure chemical fertilisers to the 

 ground just before seeding. There can be 

 but one result — the loss of the seed. If the 

 plant food has not been added a month before 

 sowing time wait until the grass is well up. 



DRESSING THE NEW LAWN 



Very well rotted manure can be put on the 

 new lawn as a fall mulch, as much to keep 



