306 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 



CHRYSANTHEMUM 



blooms. Each expert has a way of his own in preparing 

 the soil, but as equally good results have been obtained 

 under varied conditions, it is safe to conclude that the 

 method of preparing the soil has little to do with the 

 results, provided there is sufficient food within their 

 reach. All concede that fresh cut sod, 

 piled late the preceding fall or in early 

 spring, with K to ^ its bulk of half- 

 decomposed manure, forms an excellent 

 compost. Many use 1 or 2 in. of manure 

 as a mulch after the plants have become 

 established. Others place an inch of 

 half-decomposed manure in the bottom 

 of the bench. This the roots find as soon 

 as they require it. Good blooms have 

 been grown by planting on decomposed 

 sod and relying on liquid applications of 

 chemicals. 



i. Feeding.— iio definite rule can be 

 given for this work, as so much de- 

 pends on the amount of food incorporated 

 ^53 in the soil. If the soil be very rich, the 



fc- J f liquid applications should be only occa- 

 One kind ot sional and very dilute. There is more 

 Chrysanthemum danger of overfeeding by the use of 

 cu tme. liquids than by using excessively rich 



soil. Each grower must depend on his own judgment as 

 to the requirements, being guided by the appearance of 

 the plants. When the Ivs. become dark colored and very 

 brittle, it is safe to consider that the limit in feeding has 

 been reached. Some varieties refuse to bud when overfed, 

 making a mass of Ivs. instead. Others show very con- 

 torted petals, giving a rough, unfinished bloom. Still 

 others, particularly the red varieties, are likely to be 

 ruined by decomposition of the petals, called burning, 

 especially if the atmosphere is allowed to become hot 

 and stuffy. The same result will follow in dark weather, 

 or when the nights become cool, if the moisture of the 

 house is allowed to fall upon the blooms. Under such 

 conditions, the ventilation should remain on every night, 

 or heat be turned in according to the outside temperature. 



ger of overwatering as long as the foliage is bright 

 green. A little shading at planting time is not objec- 

 tionable, but it should be removed as soon as the plants 

 are established. It is often necessary to shade the pink 



454. Crown bud of Chrysanthemum at an early stage. 



Showing the shoots to be removed if the crown 

 bud is to be saved. 



5. Watering.— TiBt the foliage be the index to water- 

 ing. If it appears yellow and sickly, use less water, and 

 see that the drainage is perfect. There is but little dan- 



455. Crown bud of Chrysanthemum at a later staee. 



Showing how its strength is sapped by the shoots beneath, 

 which are just showing clusters of terminal buds. 



and red flowers if the weather continues bright for some 

 time, to prevent their fading. 



6. Training.- When the plants are 8 in. high, they 

 should be tied either to stakes or to jute twine. In the 

 former system, use one horizontal wire over each row, 

 tying the stake to this after the bottom has been in- 

 serted into the ground. Two wires will be necessary 

 where twine is used, one above the plants and the other 

 a few inches above the soil. From the first of August 

 until the flowers are in color all lateral growths should 

 be removed as soon as they appear, allowing only the 

 shoots intended for flowers to remain. The above re- 

 marks refer to the training of benched Chrysanthemums 

 as grown by florists for cut-flowers. Other kinds of 

 training are described under Subsection II. 



7. Visbudding.—No special date can be given for this 

 work, as much depends on the season and the earliness 

 or lateness of the variety to be treated. Buds usually 

 begin to form on the early sorts about Aug. 15, or soon 

 after, and some of the late varieties are not in condition 

 before Oct. 10. The object of removing the weak and 

 small buds and retaining the best is to concentrate the 

 whole energy of the plant and thereby increase the size 

 of the flower. There are two forms of buds, crowns and 

 terminals. A crown bud is formed first, never comes 

 with other flower-buds, and is provided with lateral 

 growths which, if allowed to remain, will continue their 

 growth and produce tei-minal buds later. Terminal buds 

 come later, always in clusters, are never associated with 

 lateral growths, and terminate the plant's growth for 

 that season. If the crown bud is to be saved, remove 

 the lateral growths as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 

 454, and the operation is complete. If the terminal bud 

 is desired, remove the crown and allow 1, 2 or 3 (accord- 

 ing to the vigor of the plant) of the growths to remain. 

 In a few weeks these will show a cluster of buds, and, 

 when well advanced, it will be noticed that the largest 

 is at the apex of the growth (the one saved, if perfect, 

 as it usually is), and one at each of the leaf axils {see 

 Fig. 456). The rejected buds are easiest and safest re- 

 moved with the thumb and forefinger. Should the bud 

 appear to be one-sided or otherwise imperfect, remove it 

 and retain the next best. In removing the buds, begin at 

 the top and work down. By so doing there are buds 

 in reserve, in case the best one should accidentally be 

 broken, while if the reverse course were taken, and the 

 best bud broken at the completion of the work, all the 

 labor would be lost. A few hours' disbudding will teach 

 the operator how far the buda should be advanced to 

 disbud easily. Early and late in the day, when the 



