CONIFERS 



CONIFERS 



361 



In rows not more than 6 inches apart, and preferably in 

 dry weather, when the soil does not clog, which some- 

 times prevent seeds from germinating, and can be rolled 

 over them. Mulch between 

 the rows with pine needles 

 or sphagnum moss, or other 

 fine mulch, to reduce ne- 

 cessity of watering and 

 weeding. Conifer seeds need 

 very little water for germi- 

 nation. The seeedlings, on 



533. Picturesque old hemlock spruces. 



the other hand, for the first three months, until they 

 have made their crown bud, need to be either kept well 

 watered or else protected against the drying effects of 

 sun and wind by shading, for which purpose lath screens 

 are best. These latter must be lifted for airing after the 

 sun is gone, especially in muggy weather, to avoid " damp- 

 ing-oflf . " For wintering, a covering with conifer branches 

 or very clean meadow hay is advisable (the latter is apt 

 to bring in weeds). 



For growing small quantities, the use of boxes, as 

 described by Jackson Dawson, of the Arnold Arbore- 

 tum, in Proceedings of the Massachusetts Horticultural 

 Society, is highly commendable. In well drained boxes, 

 sow the seed soon after gathering, pile four or five deep 

 in a pit or sheltered place, cover with boards, and when 

 cold weather comes, cover up with leaves or hay. About 

 the middle of April, move them into a place where they 

 get the early morning sun. Keep the seedlings well 

 watered and free from weeds, and shaded as described. 

 Winter the seedlings in same manner as the seed-boxes, 

 well covered up. They are ready for transplanting next 

 spring, when they are making their first or second set 

 of rough leaves. 



Since pine and spruce seedlings take about 7 to 10 

 pounds of phosphoric acid, 10 to 20 pounds of potash 

 and 15 to 30 pounds of lime, besides 20 pounds of ni- 

 trogen, per acre from the soil, for continuously used 

 nurseries the addition of mineral materials in the shape 

 of bone-meal and wood-ashes may become desirable. 



A large number of seedlings may be grown in a small 

 space; thus 30,000 Norway spruce may be grown on a 

 square rod, requiring about 2 pounds of seed. The 

 quantity of seed sown depends, in part, upon the length 

 of time it is expected to leave seedlings in the seed-bed, 

 besides size and quality of seed ; the quantities vary from 

 Ji to % pound per 100 square feet if sown in drills, and 



the yield of seedlings will vary from 200 to 15,000 seed- 

 lings, according to species and seasons. 



Conifers, like any other trees, may be transplanted at 

 any time of the year, provided the necessary care is 

 taken in moving the plant. This care is least required, 

 as with other trees, in the fall and early spring, when 

 activities of root and foliage are, if not at rest, at least 

 reduced. Which of these seasons is preferable depends 

 on the locality, and the dependent character of the sea- 

 son. On the whole, spring planting will probably be 

 preferable in most parts of the United States which do 

 not suffer from dry spring winds. In localities of the 

 southwest, which have commonly a dry spring followed 

 by a rainy season in July, this latter time should be 

 chosen. There is a belief that planting in August is 

 specially favorable. We see no reason for this belief, 

 unless favorable weather (a rainy season) follows. 



Conifers may be transplanted later than deciduous 

 trees, even after the buds have started, excepting the 

 larch, which buds out very early, with this species, fall 

 planting may be recommended. Cloudy weather, rather 

 than rainy or very dry, should be chosen, especially 

 when transplanting into nursery rows. 



Young trees are naturally more readily and success- 

 fully transplanted than older ones, with which there is 

 more difficulty in securing the whole root-system when 

 taking them up. Since, however, the seedlings develop 

 slowly for the first oneor two to three years, they should 

 be left in the seed-bed for that length of time, root-pruned , 

 and then transplanted into nursery rows. Although 

 those with a shallow root-system, like spruces and firs, 

 may be moved even when 30-40 feet in height, it is best, 

 even for ornamental purposes, not to take them more 

 than 3-4 feet in height. In forestry, 1- to 4-year-old 

 plants, according to species, from 2-12 or 15 inches in 

 height, are preferred for reasons of economy. 



A weeping Norway spruce. 



Much greater care than with deciduous trees is nec- 

 essary, when transplanting without an earth-ball, in 

 keeping the root fibers from drying out ; a large amount 



