72 PLEASURABLE BEE-KEEPING. 



to allow the top bar to fall in, and, not having much 

 play, keep the distance of J inch between the frame 

 ends and the hive sides. The inner walls are 8^ inches 

 deep, including the metal runners, which are J inch in 

 depth. The outer walls are 8 J inches deep : the frame 

 ends then rest on the runners of the inner walls, and 

 the tops of the frames are level with the tops of the 

 hive sides. Between the bottom bars of the frames 

 and the floor-board there will be a space of | inch. A 

 full entrance is given from side to side by cutting off 

 the front outer wall f inch, and off the inner front wall 

 f inch. Between the two walls there will be a space 

 to be filled with a plain piece of wood, but that used 

 between the front walls at the bottom must be cut so 

 as to be level with the bottom of the inner wall, and in 

 the front leave a space f inch square. This space is to 

 receive an entrance block, in which holes of 2 inches 

 and 6 inches in length, by J inch deep, are cut on 

 alternate sides. The 2-inch entrance is for use in the 

 spring and autumn ; the 6-inch entrance for winter, 

 if a wider entrance for efficient ventilation is thought 

 desirable, and also for summer, while by removing the 

 block the full entrance-may be given during the honey- 

 flow. Porches are dispensed with, as they are no more 

 required on a movable-comb hive than they are on a 

 skep. The illustration (Fig. 13) will assist the amateur in 

 carrying out the instructions for .making a typical tier- 

 ing hive, that is, a hive so arranged that the surplus 

 chambers are placed above the brood-chamber, and 

 may be fitted above or below each other as required. 



Supers. For this hive the supers are in all respects, 

 except depth, and in being without entrances, exactly 



