WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA. 261 



part under water ; but it being now dry weatbei-, we had a 

 fine view of them, while the water from the river above 

 them rushed through the different openings in majestic 

 grandeur. Here, on a little hill, jutting out into the river, 

 stands the house of Mrs. Peterson, the last house of people 

 of colour up this river ; I hired a negro from her, and a 

 coloured man, who pretended that they knew the haunts of 

 the cayman, and understood everything about taking him. 

 We were a day in passing these falls and rapids, celebrated 

 for the Pacou, the richest and most delicious fish in Guiana. 

 The coloured man was now in his element ; he stood in tlie 

 head of the canoe, and with his bow and arrow shot the 

 pacou as they were swimming in the stream. The arrov/ 

 had scarcely left the bow before he had plunged headlong 

 into the river, and seized the fish as it was struggling with 

 it. He dived and swam like an otter, and rarely missed the 

 fish he aimed at. 



Did my pen, gentle reader, possess descriptive powers, I 

 would here give thee an idea of the enchanting scenery of 

 the Essequibo ; but that not being the case, thou must be' 

 contented with a moderate and well-intended attempt. 



Nothing could be more lovely than the appearance of 

 the forest on each side of this noble river. Hills rose on 

 hills in fine gradation, all covered with trees of gigantic 

 height and size. Here their leaves were of a lively purple, 

 and there of the deepest green. Sometimes the Caracara 

 extended its scarlet blossoms from branch to branch, and 

 gave the tree the appearance as though it had been hung 

 with garland-. 



This delightful scenery of the Essequibo made the soul 

 overflow with joy, and caused you to rove in fancy through 

 fairy-land ; till, on turning an angle of the river, you were 

 recalled to more sober reflections on seeing the once 

 grand and towering mora, now dead and ragged in its top- 



