THE USE OF SHOOTS FOE PROPAGATING i8i 



to absorb sufficient water to give to the buds the necessary 

 turgidity, and to push forth the stem apex and the young 

 leaves. To commence with, therefore, we should ensure a 

 complete rest of the upper portions of the plant. These 

 conditions obtain especially in the autumn, when the air is 

 greatly cooled and the soil is still warm. If cuttings are 

 taken in the spring, it is advisable to plant them in a northerly 

 aspect, so as to prevent them from becoming heated, and to 

 prevent any premature development of the buds. In the case 

 of cuttings set in cold frames, the glass or other covering 

 should be removed qjS early as possible in the spring. 



The neglect of these precautions is the cause of most 

 injury to cuttings kept in cellars, greenhouses, &c. The 

 warmth of these places stimulates the buds to premature 

 expansion ; the new shoot will then form the chief centre 

 of attraction for the reserve food substance, and will grow 

 out as long as the food supply lasts. Thus the formation of 

 roots is prevented and the cutting dies from want of root 

 nutrition. 



In the case of valuable plants, which do not readily produce 

 adventitious roots, preparatory steps may be taken by ringing 

 or constricting the branch which is to serve as cutting, and 

 not separating it from the parent plant until the callus ring is 

 formed. The tip of the branch is then removed so that the 

 cutting has only three or four eyes. 



In certain cases the stimulating effect of the warm spring 

 weather acts beneficially. Quite a number of shrubs (Weigelia, 

 Deutzia gracilis, Cydonia jafonica, Euonymus japonicus, 

 Aucuba, Biacus, Laurus, Andromeda, &c.) grow best from cut- 

 tings made from the completely ripened first year's shoots 

 separated in July or September from the parent plant. 



The cuttings may be placed in the open ground in rather 

 shady positions in sandy soil, or may be placed in boxes which 

 remain in the open. During the first few weeks it is well to 

 keep them out of direct sunlight ; later on, towards the autumn, 

 they may receive plenty of light. In this method of propaga- 

 tion most of the cuttings will have formed roots by the time 

 the winter sets in ; those which were taken very late in the 

 year will only have the protective callus. Of the latter 



