COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 261 
most. And while it is perhaps one of the few modes 
in which young and good partridges are not much 
less good than when roasted, it gives an excellent 
account of the aged and the half-bred. 
Perdrix aux choux abroad is a dish not less 
homely, though much more widely spread, than 
partridge pudding in England ; and receipts for it are 
innumerable in all French and many English books. 
I find this succinct description (apparently half of 
French, half of German origin) in ‘The Professed 
Cook,’ third edition, 1776, by ‘B. Clermont, who has 
been many years clerk of the kitchen to some of the 
first families in this kingdom,’ and more particularly 
seems to have served as officier de bouche to the Earls 
of Abingdon and Ashburnham, from whom, let us 
hope, that he continued, even unto Zouche and 
Zetland. B. Clermont does not waste many words 
over the dish, but thus dismisses it :— 
‘Perdrix & la braze [sic] aux choux.—Brazed with 
cabbages and a bit of pickled pork, with a good cullis 
sauce. Savoys are the best for stewing. Such as 
would have them in the manner of sowerkrout must 
stew the cabbage very tender and pretty high of 
spices, and add as much vinegar as will give it a 
tartish taste. This last is commonly served in a 
tureen, and then it is. so-called. Old partridges are 
