266 COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 
men who say that pigeon pie is chiefly valuable for its 
steak, and chicken pie (despite its literary renown 
from ‘The Antiquary’) because of its seasoning. 
But the partridge has a sufficient value of his own to 
communicate it to other things instead of requiring to 
be reinforced by them. And perhaps in no case is this 
more perceptible than in partridge pie, which should, 
of course, like all things of the kind, be cold to be 
in perfection. 
It should be still more needless to say that par- 
tridge may be grilled either spread-eagle fashion or in 
halves (in which case, however, as in others, it will be 
especially desirable to guard against possible dryness 
by very careful basting, or waistcoats of bacon, or 
larding) ; that he may be converted into various kinds 
of salad ; that the process of braising or stewing may 
be applied without the cabbage being of necessity ; 
that in roasting him all manner of varieties of stuffing, 
from the common bread variety with parsley (they 
use marjoram in some counties, and it is decidedly 
better) through mushrooms to truffles, are available. 
Partridges can, of course, also be potted, either in 
joints or in the ordinary fashion of pounding up the 
fleshy parts. They make, if a sufficient number is 
available, and sufficient care is taken in the compound- 
ing, admirable sandwiches, and like every other kind 
