COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 267 
of game they enter in their turn into the composition 
of the true and rare Yorkshire pie, from which nothing 
can possibly be more different than the mixture (by no 
means despicable in its way) which is sold under that 
name as a rule. The true Yorkshire pie consists of 
birds of different sizes (tradition requires a turkey 
to begin with and a snipe to end with) boned and 
packed into each other with forcemeat to fill up 
the interstices until a solid mass of contrasted layers 
is formed. The idea is barbaric but grandiose ; the 
execution capital. 
There are, however, divers ways of dealing with 
partridges which might not occur even to an ordinarily 
lively imagination with a knowledge of plain cookery. 
I am driven to believe, from many years’ experience of 
cookery-books, that such an imagination combined 
with such a knowledge is by no means so common 
as one might expect. But the possession of it would 
not necessarily enable any one to discover for him or 
herself the more elaborate or at least more out-of-the- 
way devices to which we shall now come. 
One of these (personally I think not one of the 
most successful, but it depends very much on taste) 
is a chartreuse of partridges. The receipts for this 
will be found to differ very greatly in different books ; 
but the philosopher who has the power of detecting 
