268 COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 
likenesses under differences will very quickly hit upon 
the truth that a chartreuse of partridge is merely 
perdrix aux choux adjusted to the general require- 
ments of the chartreuse, which are that the mixture 
shall be put into a mould and baked in an oven. 
The fullest descriptions of both will be found almost 
identical, the savoy cabbage being there, and the 
bacon, and the sausage. The chief difference is that, 
for the sake of effect chiefly, since the chartreuse is 
turned out of the mould and exhibited standing, 
slices of carrot play a prominent part. They are put, 
sometimes alternating with sausage, sometimes with 
turnip, next to the sides of the mould ; then comes a 
lining of bacon and cabbage, and then the birds with 
more bacon and more cabbage are packed in the 
middle, after being previously cooked by frying and 
stewing in stock with more bacon and the usual 
accessories. A simpler chartreuse is sometimes made 
with nothing but the birds and the vegetables, both 
bacon and sausage being omitted; and it would 
clearly be within the resources and the rights of 
science to use the bacon but not the sausage, and to 
introduce other varieties. For, in fact, in the more 
complex kinds of cookery there are no hard-and-fast 
rules, and the proof not merely of puddings but of 
every dish is in the eating. 
