COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 269 
A dish which seems at first sight to savour of will- 
worship and extravagance is soufié of partridge. Yet 
it is defensible from the charge of being false heraldry, 
for the partridge is a winged animal, and that which 
restores to him lightness is not against nature. But 
it is important to remember that it has to be made of 
young birds—serdreaux,not perdrix—andlikeall things 
of its kind it is not for every cook to achieve. Yet 
the main lines of the preparation are simple. The 
meat of cold partridges is pounded, moistened, warmed 
with stock, and passed through a sieve till it becomes 
a purée. It is then combined with a still stronger 
stock, made of the bones of the birds themselves, 
adding butter, some nutmeg, four yolks of eggs, and 
two of the whites carefully whipped, after which it is 
put into the soufflé dish and the soufflé dish in the 
oven, and the whole, as quickly as possible after 
rising, set before the persons who are to eat it. Much 
good may it do them. 
The perdreau trugé which so ravished Mr. Tit- 
marsh at the Café Foy long since (I cannot conceive 
what induced him to drink Sauterne with it, and after 
Burgundy too ! it should have been at least Meursault, 
if not Montrachet or White Hermitage) was no doubt 
an excellent bird ; but there might be others as good 
as he. The truffle, to my fancy, is rather for com- 
