COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 271 
Foker expressed so artlessly, but so well, when he 
said, ‘Can’t think where the souprames comes from. 
What becomes of the legs of the fowls?’ it may be 
well to transcribe from an American, at least French- 
American, manual one of the clearest directions 1 
remember. It may be observed in passing that the 
American partridge is probably for the most part the 
Virginian quail, and that ‘over there’ they have a 
habit of eating it boiled with celery sauce or purée of 
celery, a thing which goes very well with all game 
birds, and more particularly with pheasant. But 
to the ‘souprames.’ ‘Make an incision,’ says my 
mentor, ‘on the top of the breastbone from end to 
end ; then with a sharp knife cut off the entire breast 
on each side of the partridge, including the small 
wing bone, which should not be separated from the 
breast.’ The remainder of the bird is then used for 
other purposes, and the supréme is fashioned in the 
usual way, or ways, for there are many. This seems 
to be a better and more individual thing than the 
common chicken supzéme, in which the breast is if 
used cut into separate strips, and the size of the par- 
tridge offers this advantage. On the other hand, the 
partridge cw¢/e¢—another fashion of securing most of 
the meat of the bird in a comparatively boneless con- 
dition—is begun at the other end by slitting the back 
