272 COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 
and taking out all the bones except the pinions and 
drumsticks, which are left. Cutlets thus fashioned 
can be accommodated in various ways, especially by 
sautéing them with divers sauces. The name cutlet 
is also given to less imposing fragments of the bird, 
which can be dealt with of course in almost any of 
the myriad manners in which cutlets are served. 
The best known perhaps and the commonest in books, 
if not best in the dish, is @ Ja régence. This isa 
rather complicated preparation, in which the birds are 
subjected to three different methods of cooking, the 
results of which are destined to be united. The 
roasted breasts are cut into small round pieces which 
serve to give distinction to artificial cutlets, formed in 
moulds, of a farce or forcemeat made of raw partridge 
pounded with egg, mushroom, etc., into a paste. 
These cutlets are then sent up in a sauce made of the 
bones and remnants of the birds stewed with butter, 
bacon-bones, herbs, wine, and brown sauce, finally 
compounded with about half the quantity of celery 
shredded, stewed and pulped to a cream. The effect 
is good, but the dish belongs to the family of over- 
complicated receipts, which to my thinking belong to 
a semi-barbarous period and theory of cookery. 
Partridge @ /a Parisienne, on the other hand, is 
sound in principle and excellent in effect. The birds 
