COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 273 
are browned in butter on not too fierce a fire ; some 
glaze, some stock, and a little white wine are added, 
with a slight dredging of flour, pepper, and salt, and 
then they are simmered for three-quarters of an hour 
or thereabouts, and when done are served with the 
sauce strained over them. Partridge @ Vestouffade is 
a little more complicated, but not much. The birds 
are larded, put in a saucepan with onions, carrots, 
bacon, herbs, stock, white wine, and, of course, 
pepper and salt, covered up, simmered till done, and 
served as in the other case, with the sauce strained 
and poured over them. To these two excellent ways 
may be added, as of the same family, partridge @ /a 
chasseur and partridge @ fa Portugaise, which are 
slightly different ways of cooking the jointed and 
dismembered birds in butter, with easily variable and 
imaginable seasonings— including in the last case, of 
course, garlic, and the substitution of oil for butter. 
They are all good, and always supposing that the cook 
knows his or her business. well enough to prevent 
greasiness, there are no better ways of cooking really 
good birds, except the plain roast. But as there will 
always be those who love mixed, and disguised, and 
blended flavours, let us end with two arrangements of 
greater complexity —partridge @ da Cussy and partridge 
& U' Italienne. ‘ 
T 
