274 COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 
Partridge @ da Cussy is a braised partridge with 
peculiarities. In the first place, he is boned com- 
pletely, except as to the legs. He is then stuffed with 
a mixture of sweetbreads, mushrooms, truffles, and 
cockscombs, sewn up, and half grilled, until he 
becomes reasonably consolidated. Then a braising- 
pan is taken, lined with ham, and garnished with the 
invariable accompaniments of partridge in French 
cookery—onions, carrot, mixed herbs in bouquets, 
chopped bacon, the bones of the birds smashed up, 
salt and pepper, white wine, and stock. Into this, 
after the accompaniments have been reasonably 
cooked, the birds are put, protected by buttered 
paper, and simmered slowly, with the due rite of fire 
above as well as below, which constitutes braising 
proper. They are finally served up, as usual, with 
their own sauce strained and skimmed. 
The Italian fashion is not wholly dissimilar, 
though it is usually given under the general head of 
‘baking,’ as will be evident to every one whose idea 
of cookery has got past words and come to things. 
Indeed, though I have never seen it recommended, 
I should think it could be done best in what I 
am told is called at the Cape a ‘ Dutch baking-pot,’ 
which is a slightly more refined edition of our old 
friend Robinson Crusoe’s favourite method of cook- 
