COOKERY OF THE PARTRIDGE 275 
ing. The partridges are simply prepared as if for 
roasting, but instead of being left hollow, each is 
stuffed with fine breadcrumbs, a little nutmeg, salt, 
pepper, butter, parsley, and lemon juice. A sheet of 
oiled paper being prepared for each bird, it is spread 
with a mixed mincemeat of mushroom, carrot, 
onion, parsley, herbs @ volonté, and truffles. In 
the sheet thus prepared the bird, previously waist- 
coated with bacon, is tied up. Then he is put ina 
covered pan and baked, being now and again un- 
covered and basted. At last, after three-quarters of 
an hour or so, unclothe, dish, and serve him with the 
trimmings and clothings made thoroughly hot with 
stock, wine, and the usual appurtenances for such 
occasions made and provided. 
I think that this is a tolerable summary of most 
of the best ways of cooking ‘the bird’ par éminence. 
There are others which witvosa Libido, or, if any likes 
it, refined taste, has found out. Thus, before making 
a partridge salad you may, if you like, marinade the 
birds in veal stock, tarragon vinegar, salad oil, and 
herbs, using the marinade afterwards as a dressing. 
And you may play the obvious tricks of filling 
partridges with fote gras and the like. In short, as 
has been hinted more than once, the bird, while 
requiring a very little purely decorative treatment, is 
