THE PEAK. yS 



growth. Yet they are much better if trained as pyramids, branch- 

 ing near the ground and rising gradually in a symmetrical form- 

 Grown in this way they are much better able to endure the cli- 

 mate of our colder sections, while they come into bearing much 

 sooner than those with long trunks. The method of pruning to 

 form such trees is the same as that which is fuUy described under 

 the directions given for pruning dwarf pear trees. When grown 

 in the pyramidal form here recommended, the trees can be planted 

 nearer together, and thus they shelter each other from the high 

 winds. 



Dwarf Pear trees are formed by budding upon low-growing 

 varieties of Quince, which have the effect to lessen the size of 

 the tree. Some varieties of Pear will not unite well with the 

 quince stock, and the only way of obtaining dwarf trees of such 

 varieties is by budding the Quince stock with some variety that 

 will unite firmly with it, such, for instance, as the Beurre d'Amalis, 

 and then budding the refractory variety into that. This is 

 called double working. Dwarf Pear trees attain to considerable 

 size in favorable soils, but not to the height common in standard 

 Pear trees, and usually come into bearing much earlier, and in 

 some varieties the fruit is finer and higher flavored. These 

 advantages, coupled with the fact that the trees can be planted 

 closer together, and a greater number of varieties fruited on a 

 smaller space, constitute their chief recommendations. The best 

 distance for Dwarf Pear trees is twelve feet apart each way, 

 while standard trees require twenty feet. 



In planting Dwarf Pear trees, it is important that all the 

 quince stock should be set below the surface of the ground. If 

 the bud has been inserted high up on the stock, such planting 

 would necessitate the placing of the lower portion of the roots in 

 the cold subsoil, where they would not only remain inert, 

 but become diseased, and cause the tree to become sickly 

 and die. To prevent this, a few inches of the lower part 

 of the quince root with the accompanying rootlets should 

 be removed with a fine saw, so that when planted the whole 



