96 



STATE BOARD OF HORTICULTURE. 



to cut the tree back in the spring and to bud into the young 

 shoots; and the third is to bud high into the limbs, either into 

 the old wood or on the new shoots as they put forth after the 

 trees are topped. 



Unless the buds are inserted reasonably early the entire tops 

 are not cut back until the spring following. It is best to cut 

 back a portion of the foliage of the limbs to induce the buds to 

 start without giving the trees too severe a shock, and to allow the 



buds to grow at will with the rest 

 _ ^ .of the foliage through the winter. 



From two to five of the large side 

 limbs are left to grow, as a pro- 

 tection to the buds from frost, 

 and to induce the flow of sap to 

 the buds. 



*"I believe the lack of success 

 in budding old trees arose fre- 

 quently from the fact that it was 

 deferred until too late in the 

 spring, when the sap was in the 

 top of the trees, passing by the 

 bud in its haste to get higher up, 

 and the best success has come 

 from buds inserted as the sap got 

 to be active at the point of inser- 

 tion." 



Budding Large Trees in the 

 Fall. — At a meeting of the Riv- 

 erside Horticultural Club, Mr. 

 Bryan, a noted horticulturist, 

 recommended inserting the bud 

 from below, and pushing it up 

 instead of the usual way of pushing it down, thereby insur- 

 ing better protection from damage by rain. Waxed cloth, 

 he said, was the best for tying. In regard to the treatment of 

 the tree when the buds are fully set, he favored leaving a 

 portion of the old wood and foliage to bear fruit for a time as 

 a protection from the fierce rays of the sun in July and August. 

 The heroic treatment of cutting the tree right back, which 



*J. E. Cutter, before Riverside Horticultural Club, June, 1896. 



Orange tree cut back to force it 

 to throw out shoots from the main 

 braoches.which are budded ; the body 

 of tree being protected with burlap. 



