8 ' THE VOYAGE. Chap. I. 



of the Fernand Yaz had changed much for the worse 

 since I had left, and that it would be less dangerous 

 to run a canoe through the surf to the beach than to 

 attempt an entry into the mouth of the river. It 

 was now the beginning of the rainy season, when the 

 winds are less rough than in the dry season, but the 

 surf, under the influence of the steady south-west 

 winds, was still frightful. However, the first landing, 

 in Adjouatonga's boat, which was much steadier than 

 the rest, was made with safety. The frail canoe was 

 skilfully directed towards a promising roller at the 

 right moment, and we were carried on its back with 

 lightening speed to the beach, where we were snatched 

 up by the natives assembled to meet us. After this 

 hazardous landing, I was hurried along amidst a crowd 

 of several hundred savages, all dancing and shouting 

 with frantic joy, across the sandy tongue of land to 

 the banks of the Fernand Yaz, where canoes were 

 ready to take us up the river to the village of 

 Eanpano. 



Although I had been absent only four years — 

 years so full of events to me ! — time had wrought 

 great changes in the scene of my former adventures. 

 The mouth of the river had altered so much that I 

 scarcely knew it again. The long, sandy, reed- 

 covered spit, which formerly projected three miles 

 from the southern point of the river's mouth, had 

 disappeared, and the sea had washed up the sand so 

 much on the northern side that the village of Elinde, 

 whose chief, Sangala, had given me so much trouble in 

 former times, had become untenantable, and the people 

 had removed. Many little islands had also been sub- 



