PHOTOGRAPHY 195 
exposed, and should be thrown away. In case it “comes up” less quickly, 
indicating that it is not greatly overexposed, it can be saved by the addition 
of more bromide. When the image does not show till the end of five to 
ten minutes, the plate has been underexposed. It is then necessary to add 
more “pyro,” taking care not to pour it on the plate, and, after the image 
appears with its striking contrast, to leave the plate in water until as much 
detail as possible is brought out in the shadows. In the case of. a normal 
exposure, when greater detail is desired, the negative is left for some time 
in water, and when contrast is sought more “pyro” is used. Negatives 
with unusual detail lack “snap”; they are “flat,” and fail to make artistic 
pictures. Contrast, on the other hand, often obscures detail, and the best 
results can only be obtained by a happy combination of the two. The 
most important maxim in developing is that the process shall be con- 
tinued until the image has become indistinct. The universal tendency of 
the begiuner is to remove the negative the moment the outlines grow 
dimmer, and the result is a thin, lifeless negative. It is almost impossible 
to develop too far, if the image is not allowed to disappear. Negatives of 
this sort are “thick,” and though they print more slowly, produce brilliant 
pictures. A large quantity of the developing solution is used with single 
plates in small trays, and is allowed to act without rocking the tray. Much 
time is saved, however, by developing several plates together, and to avoid 
using a large quantity of the solution, the tray is gently rocked from time 
toe time. This movement is particularly necessary at the beginning, in 
order that the plates may be covered evenly, and at once. Fifty cubic centi- 
meters of the soluticn will develop three or four 614 x 8% plates, and twice 
as many 4 x 5's. After the developer has once been used, it is kept for 
several days to restrain overexposed plates. As soon as the plate is 
developed, it is rinsed in water, and placed in the fixing fluid, until the 
white opaqueness is entirely removed. The “hypo” is then washed out 
by immersing the negatives for one to two hours in running water. If the 
latter can not be secured, the water in which they are placed should be 
changed frequently.. The negatives are then air-dried within doors, in a 
place free from dust. Finally, they are filed away in negative envelopes, 
each bearing the name and number of the negative, and preferably also, 
the time and other exposure data. 
242. Finishing. On account of the time demanded by other field tasks, 
it has not been found desirable to make and finish prints in the field. This, 
with the making of lantern slides, enlargements, etc., may well be turned 
over to a professional photographer. It is the custom to make a proof of 
each negative to meet the casual needs that arise in the field. For this 
