UP THE PARAGUAY 47 



without which as a basis there can be no advance in other 

 and even more important matters. 



Then I was driven to the City Hall, accompanied by 

 the intendente, or mayor, a German long settled in the coun- 

 try and one of the leading men of the city. There was a 

 breakfast. When I had to speak I impressed into my ser- 

 vice as interpreter a young Paraguayan who was a gradu- 

 ate of the University of Pennsylvania. He was able to 

 render into Spanish my ideas — on such subjects as orderly 

 liberty and the far-reaching mischief done by the revolu- 

 tionary habit — ^with clearness and vigor, because he thor- 

 oughly understood not only how I felt but also the American 

 way of looking at such things. My hosts were hospitality 

 itself, and I enjoyed the unexpected greeting. 



We steamed on up the river. Now and then we passed 

 another boat — a steamer, or, to my surprise, perhaps a bar- 

 kentine or schooher. The Paraguay is a highway of traffic. 

 Once we passed a big beef-canning factory. Ranches stood 

 on either bank a few leagues apart, and we stopped at 

 wood-yards on the west bank. Indians worked around 

 them. At one such yard the Indians were evidently part 

 of the regular force. Their squaws were with them, cook- 

 ing at queer open-air ovens. One small child had as pets 

 a parrot and a young coati — a kind of long-nosed rac- 

 coon. Loading wood, the Indians stood in a line, tossing 

 the logs from one to the other. These Indians wore 

 clothes. 



On this day we got into the tropics. Even in the heat 

 of the day the deck was pleasant under the awnings; the 

 sun rose and set in crimson splendor; and the nights, with 

 the moon at the full, were wonderful. At night Orion 



