UP THE RIVER OF TAPIRS 165 



near by. Sometimes these burrows are in the side of a 

 sand-bank, the sand being so loose that it is a marvel that 

 it does not cave in. Sometimes the burrows are in the 

 level plain, running down about three feet, and then rising 

 at an angle. The nest consists of a few leaves and grasses, 

 and the eggs are white. The other bird, called a nun or 

 waxbill, is about the size of a thrush, grayish in color, 

 with a waxy red bill. It also burrows in the level soil, 

 the burrow being five feet long; and over the mouth of 

 the burrow it heaps a pile of sticks and leaves. 



At this camp the heat was great — from 91° to 104° Fah- 

 renheit — and the air very heavy, being saturated with mois- 

 ture; and there were many rain-storms. But there were 

 no mosquitoes, and we were very comfortable. Thanks 

 to the neighborhood of the ranch, we fared sumptuously, 

 with plenty of beef, chickens, and fresh milk. Two of the 

 Brazilian dishes were delicious: canja, a thick soup of 

 chicken and rice, the best soup a hungry man ever tasted; 

 and beef chopped in rather small pieces and served with 

 a well-flavored but simple gravy. The mule allotted me 

 as a riding-beast was a powerful animal, with easy gaits. 

 The Brazilian Government had waiting for me a very 

 handsome silver-mounted saddle and bridle; I was much 

 pleased with both. However, my exceedingly rough and 

 shabby clothing made an incongruous contrast. 



At Tapirapoan we broke up our baggage — as well as 

 our party. We sent forward the Canadian canoe — which, 

 with the motor-engine and some kerosene, went in a cart 

 drawn by six oxen — and a hundred sealed tin cases of 

 provisions, each containing rations for a day for six men. 

 They had been put up in New York under the special 



