270 FEOM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



and wearing swords, and with their boys behind, bearing 

 their much-prized guns. And there are many women, too, 

 in the crowd in bright raiment and with blue-painted eyes, 

 and hair elaborately attired and drenched in oil. 



Here are the Kanuri, moving apart with , dignity as 

 becomes the possessors of the land, tall and well-bred looking, 

 courteous and generous to the people of their own race and 

 to the stranger within their gates ; but despising the Hausas, 

 who will stoop to carry the white man's loads for the sake 

 of gain, or go, so the others say, any distance and employ 

 any means to drive a hard bargain. Then- there are the 

 quiet and silent Shuas, the drovers and shepherds, who, 

 hke gypsies, are distrusted by all, and keep to themselves. 

 And again one marks the high-featured Arab, proud and 

 condescending in mien, like the travelled man he is, from 

 an old civilisation come among barbarians. 



It is amusing to watch some of the fashions of greeting. 

 Two Hausas will meet, first cross themselves, then hold each 

 other by the hand not letting go till they have finished 

 their salutation. This is always in the same terms arid 

 Uke the following dialogue : 



1st Hausa. " Hail ! Is it well with you ? " 



2nd Hausa. " It is well." 



1st Hausa. " Allah be praised for that ! Is it well with 

 your wives ? " 



2nd Hausa. " It is well." 



1st Hausa. " Allah be praised ! Is it well with your 

 children ? " 



2nd Hausa. " They are well." 



1st Hausa. " 'Uah be praised ! And your horse ? " 



