274 FROM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



the dry grass plains. And there is little or no game to be 

 found, partly owing to the want of water, and partly to the 

 populousness of the neighbourhood. But though the time 

 was uneventful, it was interesting for the opportunity it 

 afforded for studying the natives, whose villages are frequent 

 along the road. The only three, through which the road 

 actually passes after Maidugari, are the Kanuri villages of 

 Marsu, Wulo and Mongonnu. At these we were treated 

 very well by the chiefs, who came with large "dashes;" 

 the usual fowls and eggs for ourselves ; and for the " boys " 

 calabashes containing shapes of ground millet, made by the 

 contents of a smaller calabash being turned out into a larger 

 and surrounded by a sauce of meat spiced with chilis. 

 As well as these there were calabashes heaped up with green 

 food, and all was piping hot. On these occasions it was 

 always the duty of the cook's mate, Lowi, to bring forward 

 a bowl of water to try the eggs by ordeal. Out of a dozen 

 it was not unusual for five to float, which the chief would 

 take back, with an absolute composure of countenance that 

 betrayed long habit, to be stored till the passing of the next 

 white man, and so on, if rejected, till they burst. 



The villages of the Shuas are numerous in this part, for it 

 represents the heart of their country. They are never to 

 be found upon the road but always a little way off in the 

 bush. This may be owing partly to their secret nature, but 

 the Kanuri say it is because the Shuas are mean and hate to 

 have to give to the travellers on the road. The natives of 

 Africa, with a few exceptions, have the sense of hospitality 

 remarkably developed, and no traveller upon the road is 

 allowed to pass hungry. So there are no houses found in a 



