FROM MAIFONI TO KUKAWA 279 



His coat was smooth and cream-coloured, with a white 

 spot on the back of his neck, and he had four neat httle 

 white socks. 



About 600 yards away to the left of the road, between 

 Mongonnu and Kukawa, we came upon the vision of a beautiful 

 lake, lying in the open plain and about a quarter of a mile in 

 length. It was a gracious sight in such a waterless land and 

 I rode towards it with delight. Talbot, too, hailed it with 

 joy as lending variation to the details of his map. But when 

 we got almost up to it, it vanished away with extraordinary 

 suddenness, and we discovered that we had been led by 

 " the mocking mirage of the wilderness." 



Next day we reached Kukawa, the goal of our survey. 

 The market was in full swing when we arrived and our 

 coming caused no small stir among the large crowds that 

 were gathered round the stalls. 



Meanwhile, our carriers, who had now been eight months 

 engaged on work of which they were none too fond, entailing 

 submission to a discipline unusual to them, here finally 

 laid down their burdens. Consequently their enthusiasm 

 knew no bounds, and it was quickly communicated to the 

 people in the market, who added their voices to the general 

 acclamation, not understanding in the least, I am sure, what 

 all the excitement was about, but instinctively realising that 

 people when happy are apt to lighten their purses with their 

 hearts. And they were right ; for no sooner had the " boys " 

 been paid than they overran the market and converted 

 their coin into kind. 



Talbot now placed the theodolite into position, and 

 adjusting his sight on a stone which marked Colonel Jackson's 



