286 FROM THE NIGER TO THE NILE 



by a blare of long trumpets of most musical tone, the Shehu 

 goes in state to pray, attended by his guard and followed 

 by his court and boy slaves. The same ceremony is daily 

 observed by him at three o'clock in the afternoon and again 

 at sundown. 



But to return to our own doings in the precincts of the 

 palace. Arrived at the gate, we were received by the guard 

 who took charge of our horses, while one went in to give 

 warning of our approach. Presently he returned to bid us 

 enter, and, passing under the arch, we came out into a large 

 open court, and then up steps through numerous corridors 

 and rooms, all quite bare of ornament or evidence of occupa- 

 tion, till we eventually found ourselves in another court- 

 yard where, in a kind of recess sat the Shehu himself, sur- 

 rounded by his court. 



He was engaged at the time putting his seal to various 

 State documents and did not immediately take notice of my 

 presence. This gave me time to observe him. He was an 

 imposing figure, in his richly worked bernouse, bright red silk 

 turban and heavy gold finger-rings ; while the stoutness of 

 middle age added not a little to the dignity of his appearance. 

 His rather undefined features, set in a smooth round face, 

 and a kindly expression of eye gave one an idea of 

 weakness, incompatible with his important position. But 

 his appearance did not belie the common report concern- 

 ing him ; it is really only the British protection that placed 

 him, and now keeps him on his throne. Before his reign, 

 on the death of his father, he was carried off and made 

 a slave by Rabeh, and still bears the brands of his servi- 

 tude on his cheeks. Then Rabeh was finally defeated 



