146 THE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



This is not essential, but is more likely to ensure 

 success. Many make the shield of bark containing 

 the bud considerably longer than the longitudinal 

 slit which is to enclose it, and cut it across when it 

 is in so that it exactly fits the cross cut. This is 

 the mode generally adopted by professionals, and 

 requires a steady hand, good sight, and a very keen 

 knife. Amateurs probably more often make the bud 

 the right length to start with, cutting the upper end 

 square. The leaf-stalk will form a useful handle for 

 pushing the bud down into position. 



The bud should now be tied in, making the bands 

 of raffia touch one another and cover the whole of 

 the slit wood except the bud itself. The tie should 

 be made firm and fairly tight, and should not be 

 removed for four weeks, unless it is seen to be 

 cutting into the bark. The bud will generally have 

 taken or failed by the end of three weeks, but some- 

 times this is a little too soon to remove the ties 

 entirely. No shading is necessary in the hottest 

 weather, if the stock continues in good growing 

 order. 



There should be no shortening of the budded 

 shoots, before, at the time, or after budding. 

 Shortening checks the flow of sap to the bud 

 instead of increasing it. When the ties are 

 removed, standard stocks that have failed may 

 be re-budded on fresh shoots. The date of budding 

 each stock or row should be entered on the label 

 or in a book, that the proper time for removing the 

 ties may be known. 



Some recommend budding with only the longitu- 

 dinal cut and no transverse one. This may be a 



