ir.C TI-TE BOOK OF THE ROSE chap. 



be left at tbe bottom, tbe likelihood of striking will 

 be increased. If taken so early that the leaves yet 

 remain, all should be removed save the two top 

 ones, and in this case a good soaking with water 

 should be given after the cuttings are set out. 



They should be set deep, only two buds showing 

 above the soil, in double rows as recommended for 

 briar and manetti cuttings. It will be a great help 

 to tbe emission of roots if the shoots rest firmly at 

 the bottom upon some sharp sand or sifted cocoa- 

 fibre dust. Attention must be paid to them, as to 

 briar cuttings, after sharp frosts which lift the 

 shoots in their holes. In the winter they may be 

 gently pressed down again, but if thus raised by 

 frost later when possibly roots may have formed, it 

 will be better to tread the soil firmly round them. 

 In the following autumn those that have made good 

 growth may be moved, and planted shallower in 

 their permanent quarters, and it will then be seen 

 how poor are the roots in comparison to those of the 

 stocks on which Roses are budded. 



If this method of propagation is carried out during 

 the summer, a close frame or at least a hand-glass is 

 necessary. The cuttings need not be more than four 

 inches long, and should consist of short-jointed wood 

 with a heel to each. They should be syringed and 

 kept close for a while, and much care will be requisite 

 to prevent damping off. Bottom heat is a great 

 help towards getting them on quickly, but all this is 

 generally great waste of time and energy, as only a 

 few of the hardiest, strongest, and commonest sorts 

 will do well on their own roots, and these will root 

 fairly as November cuttings. 



Suckers and Layering. — The Scotch and Austrian 



