26 



130. The roots of seedlings should not be allowed to 

 dry out in moving them from the seed-bed to the permanent 

 site. To prevent drying the roots should be dipped in a pud- 

 dle immediately upon being taken from the ground. A pud- 

 dle is made by stirring soil into a tub until a thin mud is 

 formed. The puddle should be stirred again before each 

 bundle of seedlings is dipped. When the seedlings are pud- 

 dled they are placed in a bucket or basket and covered with 

 a damp cloth or some damp leaves. They are then ready to 

 be taken to the permanent site. 



131. When a hole of convenient size has been opened 

 with a mattock, a plant is taken from the basket and held in 

 place with one hand while the soil is drawn about the roots 

 with the other. Care should be taken not to get any sod or 

 leaves next the roots. When the soil has been drawn about 

 the roots, it is firmly packed with the heel, to get it in close 

 contact with the roots. The soil is settled against the roots 

 of fruit, shade, and ornamental trees by the use of water; 

 but in forest planting the use of water is impractical, and 

 packing with the heel is used instead. 



132. As in making seed-spots, the planting may be 

 made uniform by using stakes to guide on. The distance 

 recommended is also the same, 6 by 6 feet, or 4 by 9. 



133. Seedlings may be removed from the seed-bed from 

 November to April. February is the best time; for they are 

 then not exposed to the severe cold of winter and they have 

 time to become adjusted to their new surroundings before 

 the hot, dry weather sets in. 



134. Topics for further study. — 



(a) Effect of high stumps on sprouting, 



(b) Age to which sprouting power is retained, 



