Chap. XXIIL] TRAINING. 393 



them. If one grows stronger than the others, it must be loosened 

 from its position on the wall and lowered. This will divert the 

 sap so as to strengthen the rest. Nothing is more easily 

 conducted than the sap, if a little attention be paid to it; if 

 neglected, it soon rushes towards the higher points, and spoils 

 the symmetry of the tree. 



At the second pruning they must be cut at B, and about a third of 

 the length of the side-shoots must also be cut at A A, in preceding 

 figure. If one side-branch happens to be stronger than the other, 

 the stronger one must be cut somewhat shorter. In cutting and 

 pruning wall-trees the cut should be made above "a front bud, so 

 that the wound made by the knife may be turned towards the wall, 



The Pahnette Verrler. Fifth prttniv^. 



and away from the eye, from which, of course, it will soon be 

 effectually hidden by this front bud developing into a shoot, and 

 thickening at its base. During the second year no more branches 

 must be permitted to grow, because the trainer desires to throw all 

 the strength he can into the lower branches, which are to be the 

 longest. Sometimes, however, the strength of the lower branches 

 will permit the second stage of branches to be made during the second 

 year of training. At the third pruning the central stem is cut at six 

 inches or so above the previous incision, which is indicated by a 

 slight ring, and a third part of the new growth of the side-branches 

 cut off, as shown in the illustration. Here, again, we cut above 

 and inside three promising eyes to obtain a new set of branches, 

 and each succeeding year add another series until the tree is formed. 



