MAKING THE MOST OF 8PA0E. 3 



The wires B should be strong, at least J inch in dian|eter ; strand wire 

 (say 7-strand) is best. ( 



The uprights G should be about 8 feet long, of whiofi 2 feet must be 

 driven into the ground. They must be set at a slight angle, like the 

 stumps. It is an advantage if they are " shoed " at the base, and a strut 

 talcen from the tip of the " shoe " to the post above ground. The connecting 

 wires S should be attached to the stumps before the latter are driven into 

 the ground, and made quite secure by means of staples (which cost about 

 2d. per lb.). The upper part of the wire may then bo bent round the up- 

 rights and drawn tight by means of a special tool, which can be hired or 

 borrowed from the ironmonger who supplies the wive. 



When stumps and principal uprights have thus been made secure, the 

 intermediary uprights JD may be driven into the ground. There should be 

 one at every 6 yards at least. Hop poles about 2 inches in diameter answer 

 for these, and the base at all events must be creosoted. 



The wires may now be stretched. Five-strand wire, i inch or so in diameter, 

 will be suitable, and it should be well galvanised. Attach at one end and 

 make secure with staples driven well home; then strain tight at the opposite 

 end. Care should be exercised in uncoiling the wire, otherwise ugly kinks 

 may be caused, and the work will look slovenly. 



Except for the sake of appearances, it is not neossary that the wires 

 should be as taut as fiddle strings. If tight enough to "sing" a little when 

 drawn laterally and released, all practical purposes will be served. It is 

 important to tighten up the wires by degrees, beginning with the interme- 

 diate ones. If the top or bottom one is put on first and strained tight, it 

 will loosen when the next one is put on and similarly tightened. 



In districts where it is difficult to get posts of a suitable character, 

 recourse may be had to metal uprights to take the place of and D. The 

 first cost will be greater, but the framework v^ill of course be more lasting. 



In planting the trees it is a very good plan to proceed as follows : Begin 

 at one end and make a trench about 18 inches wide and 1 foot deep, throw- 

 ing the soil into a ridge along the edge of the trench. Having arrived at 

 the other end, turn, and dig over the subsoil, shifting it another foot deep, 

 not merely scratching it over. Spread on the subsoil before turning it one 

 of the following mixtures : — 



A B 



1 oz. of muriate of potash, 1| oz. of kainit, 



2 oz. of basic slag, 1 J oz. of superphosphate, 



per yard run. per yard run. 



In the absence of these fertilisers, road scrapings, burnt refuse, mortar 

 rubbish, or well-decayed manure may be dug in. All are good; but I 

 deprecate large quantities of rich, rank dung, because it will tend to entice 

 the roots downwards, and foster an exuberant, unfruitful growth, rendering 

 speedy relifting or root pruning absolutely necessary. 



Having thus prepared the trenches, the trees may be selected. Many 

 do this first ; but if the trenches are made well in advance of planting it is 

 an advantage, as the lower soil becomes weathered and sweetened. The 

 trees should be of the upright cordon class, and the price will vary from 

 Is. to 2s. 6d. each, according to age and variety. Trees three to four years 

 old are the best. -They may be bought already furnished with fruit spurs, 

 and with a web of fibrous roots. 



The loosening of the subsoil will have partially filled up the trench, and 

 a layer of the surface soil may now be shovelled in, reducing the depth of 



