12 PIOTOBIAL PBAOTIOAL FBUIT GROWING. 



Espaliers. — Here we have another formal type of tree, secured by the 

 skilful manipulation of the yearling. A maiden tree may be cut hard ba-ck. 

 It possible, it should be headed to a point where there are three buds not far 

 apart, one of them on the front of the main stem. A front bud gives a 

 shoot whioli goes up in a truer line with the lower portion of what is to be 

 the main stem j;han a side bud. One of tlje three buds is to continue the leader, 

 and the other two are to form the lower pair of side branches. If one of 

 these extends at the expense of the other, which is weak, endeavour to 

 redress the balance by depressing the stronger (depression checks the flow 

 of sap and steadies the growth) and raising the weaker. When the leader 

 has extended about 1 foot it may be stopped again, if possible, at a point 

 where three buds cluster near each other, and material for another tier of 

 branches thus secured. In good soil a pair of tiers may be secured in one 

 season. I have known more under very favourable circumstances. 



It is not advisable to tie the side shoots down to the horizontal position 

 which they are to assume ultimately (see g in Fig. 5, page 10) while they 

 are in an early stage of development ; it will suffice to do that in the winter 

 following their formation, or even in the second year. Under ordinary 

 circumstances, an espalier tree with five or six tiers of branches 10 inches to 

 1 foot apart is large enough for most gardens. On a wall, an espalier may 

 be trained with twenty or more tiers ; it is merely a question of space. 



The side branches may be summer and winter pruned, the same as 

 cordons. 



Fan Trees. — The fan system is well suited to Peaches and Nectarines, 

 to Apricots, and to Morello Cherries. If anyone has a wall with a north 

 aspect, and is not quite sure what fruit he would like to grow on it, let him 

 plant a fan-shaped Morello, permit it to grow freely, and lay in plenty of 

 young wood. He will get abundance of very useful fruit. 



A fan shaped tree proper has no vertical leading shoot. All the growths 

 radiate from a point low down in the tree as a result of hard cutting back. 

 A maiden tree is chosen, cut down two-thirds its length, and three shoots 

 selected from the buds that break, the others being removed while still 

 quite small. When starting into growth the following spring, these three 

 shoots may be shortened to 6 inches. As a result, buds will break into 

 growth, and two may be selected on each of the three stumps, and allowed 

 to extend diagonally and equidistant. Thus a tree with six healthy 

 branches will be secured, all radiating from a common base or centre— a 

 veritable " fan " (see Fig. G, page 1 1 ). 



It may be well to warn the inexperienced fruit grower against rushing 

 his trees into size by omitting the cutting back of the three branches. The 

 temptation to do so is very strong in the case of Peaches and Plums, for 

 they make a great deal of growth when young, and it seems a pity to out 

 niost of it away. Nevertheless the grower should harden his heart, sharpen 

 his knife, and follow the advice here given. 



Standards. — This class of tree is not suitable for small gardens, but 

 in orchards, where the trees are wanted to give large quantities of fruit, and 

 they can be given a space between each pair of 20 or 30 feet, they are good. 

 Standards and half-standards, the former on clean stems 6 feet, and the 

 latter 3 feet, in height, of Apples, Plums, and Cherries are still being planted 

 extensively in Kent, also in the Midlands and the West. In forming young 

 trees, it is wise to shorten the shoots two-thirds their length the first season, 

 and one-third the second season ; then a tree with a, good foundation is 

 secured (see Fig. 7, page 13). 



