42 FIOTOBIAL PBAGTIOAL FRUIT OBOWING. 



established, and may come out in autumn. The tree is now no longer a 

 stock, but an Apple or Pear, and has to be trained ; see previous chapters. 



Whip Grafting.— If the bud has not taken in spring, the stock 

 must be cut down to be grafted. Clear away the top hamper, make an 

 upward sloping cut about 1 inch long on the stump, and a downward cut 

 ^ inch long in the face of the first cut. It is now ready for whip grafting. 

 Have some shoots about as thick as a lead pencil of the variety to be 

 increased at hand, cut them into lengths of about 4 inches, make two cuts 

 corresponding to the" stock on the lower portion, and iit the two together. 

 Tie securely, and wax or clay to exclude air. When care is taken tha.t one 

 edge each of stock and scion are in union (both cannot be if they are of unequal 

 sizes) failures are few. (Fig. 23, page 39, and Fig. 24, page 41.) 



Grafting Iiarge Trees. — Of course, whip grafting is not suitable 

 for large trees, but here we get away from the question of stocks and the 

 turning of them into fruit trees, and come to a different one — that of 

 changing a variety. Probably this is of greater interest to most fruit 

 growers than the other; certainly there are many who have unsuitable 

 sorts or unhealthy trees, and who would like to improve tiiem by grafting. 

 AH such work may be done in April, but the good grower frequently begins 

 before, first by taking off the shoots for scion making, and laying them in a 

 moist, cool, shady place until wanted ; and, secondly, by heading back the 

 old trees and clearing the branches away, thus facilitating the actual 

 operation when the proper time comes. He has then only to saw off 1 inch 

 or 2 inches to get fresh wood, and he is ready to graft. (Fig. 25, page 43.) 

 Crown grafting, i-o. making a space between the bark and the wood 

 for the reception of the pared-down scion, is good, given careful tying ; 

 without this the scions would be blown out. First slit the bark, then make 

 the space with a piece of hard wood or bone, withdraw this, and substitute 

 the scion after a sloping cut lias been made in it about 1 inch long. 



Cleft grafting answers equally well with good workmanship, and 

 tying is hardly needed. In this operation the stump is split to a depth of 

 1 inch by laying tlie edge of a strong, heavy blade across the centre and 

 giving a sharp tap with a mallet. The blade is removed, and the cleft held 

 open by inserting a small upright chisel in the centre. A portion of wood 

 is cut out of each edge at both sides so as to form a wedge-shaped space, 

 and the scion is cut to fit it. By slightly depressing the chisel the scion can 

 be got well in, and directly the chisel, is withdrawn the cut pieces corns 

 together and hold the graft tight. (Fig. 26, page 44.) 



As so much of the success of grafting depends on excluding the air (Fig. 

 27, page 45), I give a few specially chosen recipes for covering materials. 



A Good " Pug." — Mix clay, loam, and cow manure into a paste, chop 

 up some hay and incorporate with it, or use a little hair. Have a pail of 

 water handy. Wet the hands, and form a cone of " pug" round the graft. 

 A Good Wax.— 

 S parts common resin \ Put the tallow in an old iron pot, break 

 3 „ red ochre ( up the resin and pitch, and spread over 



3 „ tallow j it. Add the ochre, and " cook " for an 



1 „ Burgundy pitch / hour, stirring well. Apply warm. 

 Another Good Wax.— 

 7 parts Burgundy pitch ) 

 7 black I 



3 ',', yellow wax" > Soil, Stir, and apply warm as before, 



3 „ tallow J 



