82 PlGTOniAL PBAGTIGAL FRTTIT GROWING. 



urge a trial with a few canes, confident that success will follow good 

 culture. 



It will be gathered from the foregoing that a most important point in 

 securing success with Blaclcberries is to practise cutting back after planting. 

 I am not prepared to say that success is impossible without it; but I do 

 know that failure after failure has followed neglect of it, and that success 

 has, after all, crowned the culture when, tardily and reluctantly, the dis- 

 appointed grower has resorted to it. Blackberries may be planted either in 

 autumn or spring, but whichever season be chosen the canes should be cut 

 down to within 6 inches of the ground before growth starts. 



Blackberries may be trained on a trellis or to stakes. The most business- 

 like plan is to erect a wire trellis, but it is also the most expensive. If 

 chosen, it should be 5 feet or more high. One or two of the dwarf grower's 

 would do with a lower trellis, but T think that anyone who makes up his 

 mind to have a trellis would be wise to erect a fairly high one, so as to be 

 able to accommodate any sort. In the absence of a wire trellis, a tall 

 framework of stakes and rods would answer ; and this could be made 

 locally. With respect to the stake sj-stem, it answers very well, and is con- 

 venient. The stakes should be stout and tall, and should be creosofed 

 at the base. Put them in before planting, so as to avoid injuring the 

 roots. 



There is no advantage in crowding Blackberries, and I suggest that if 

 they be trained to a trellis they be planted 4 feet apart, and it to a stake 5 

 feet. The stations slionld be prepared well in advance of planting. Take 

 off the top foot of soil, turn the subsoil over, and work a little wood ash or 

 superphosphate into it. Return the top soil, and mix a little manure with 

 it. In planting spread the roots well out, and scatter soil amongst them, 

 pressing it gently to ensure firmness without injury to the fibres. Mulch 

 with manure afterwards. 



. Blackberries ought not to bear the first year of planting, but the second. 

 I may, however, say that I have known it necessary to cut them back a 

 second time, and sacrifice two years. This was when they were planted in 

 poor, dry soil, and a very dry season followed late spring planting. If they 

 push many growths after the cutting back, thin out the weakest ones. 



Now comes the question of pruning. Fortunately, it presents no 

 particular difficulties. Practically speaking, the case is met by Easpberry 

 treatment. After the fruit has been gathered, cut the canes that have borne 

 it hack half their length, and in autumn cut the portions left clean out close 

 to the ground. This will give a chance to the young canes that sprang up 

 from the ground in spring, and by autumn are several feet high. They will 

 have room and exposure, so that they become well developed and matured. 

 It is not advisable to cut these successional canes much, for if they were 

 hard pruned a good deal of fruit would be lost. Really all that is necessary 

 is to remove the upper few inches when soft and unripe, or when rambling 

 untidily above and around the support. If there are side shoots they may 

 be cut in. 



There is rarely any I hing gained by having a large number of canes on 

 each stool. Six are quite enough, as with Raspberries, and the grower need 

 not grumble if he has less. It a large number push up, do not hesitate to 

 cut some of them out, as a few selected canes, well developed and ripened, 

 will hear prodigiously — in fact, more fruit will be got from four or five good 

 ones than from a dozen bad ones. 



The varieties are not numerous, so that tliere is little difficulty in 



