FRUIT TREES IN POTS. 129 



CDaptcr XIX»— fruit trees in Pots. 



Thbue is a branch of fruit growing that used to be known as orchard- 

 house culture in days of old. The system is practised still — nay, more than 

 ever, since glass is so much cheaper than it used to be, but somehow the 

 old pln-ase is dying out. So full of fascinations is this branch of fruit 

 culture .that everybody would practise it if they had the means. As it is, 

 the number of really high-class cultures is not; very great. There are two 

 well-known amateurs who indulge themselves in really magnificent collec- 

 tions ; they are Mr. Leopold de Rothschild and Jlr. Martin Smith, whose 

 talented gardeners are both experts in this splendid art. 



There is but one serious drawback to orohaid-house culture — it calls for 

 a roomy structure. In Mr. Martin Smith's case the houses were specially 

 built, I believe. They are wide, lofty, ard very airy. Moreover, summer 

 quarters of the best have been provided in the form of a large wire enclosure, 

 which secures plenty of air for the, plants and at the same time keeps the 

 birds at bay. We cannot all enjoy these luxuries — would that we could ! We 

 can, however, manage a few tree.s — some of us. 



Apples, Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Pears, and Plums may all be grown ; 

 it is just a question of convenience and taste. Speaking generally. Apples 

 are -not quite so suitable as the real spur-bearers ; but there are some sorts 

 that will do exceedingly well, and amongst these, happily, is Cox's Orange 

 Pippin. However, many people prefer to grow their Apples out of doors, 

 and reserve their space under glass for choicer things. 



The grower must prepare himself at the outset for a little expense for 

 pots. It is not much use employing small ones, as the root action would be 

 too strong for them. 10, 11, and 12-inch nre suitable sizes. It is worth 

 wliile, too, to take a little trouble to get a suitable mixture of soil. That 

 which is used for the final potting of Chrysanthemums would do g-dmirably ; 

 but if a special compost is prepared, it might consist with advantage of 

 3 parts of stiff turfy loam with plenty of fibre, 1 part each of leaf- 

 mould and decayed manure, and a quart of soot and bone meal in equal 

 parts added to each bushel. Remember that a rich, soft, loose compost is to 

 be avoided ; the rougher, lumpier, and firmer it is, the better. 



The pots should be carefully drained, and there is no better plan than to 

 proceed on the good old lines of placing a large crock over the drainage 

 hole, covering this with smaller pieces, overlapping each other evenly, and 

 putting over these in turn either some coarse lumps of soil or moss, to 

 prevent the finer particles of soil working among the crocks and clogging 

 the drainage. 



With respect to the best time to begin, I may say that there is no real 

 necessity to I'eel bound down to one particular month in autumn, winter, or 

 early spring. Perhaps the work is likely to get done the best in November 

 or December, because at that season there is often a little spare time, and 

 the work is done with due care and deliberation. 



(Co/itimied on. page 13(5.) 



