INDUSTRIES 



The settlement of foreign artisans in great 

 numbers in this district during the sixteenth 

 century was doubtless one of the chief causes 

 of the introduction of new methods and dye- 

 stuffs. Later the establishment of the im- 

 portant calico-printing industry which ex- 

 tended from Southwark and Bermondsey to 

 what was for long its principal centre on 

 the banks of the Wandle, probably led to 

 the adoption of yet newer processes in the 

 application of colouring materials to textile 

 febrics. The dyeing industry was however 

 probably well established in Southwark by 

 the middle of the fifteenth century, and was 

 perhaps called into being by the large trade in 

 cloth and leather in and about the capital. 

 We find William Miller, a Southwark dyer, 

 the plaintiff" in a Chancery suit in the year 

 1462.' 



In addition to the increased use of brazil- 

 wood, the objections to which as set out in 

 an Act of Parliament we have already noticed, 

 the discovery of America led also to the im- 

 portation of logwood and its use as a valuable 

 dye-stuff" for the obtaining of black and a 

 variety of beautiful colours. The colours 

 however proved so fugitive that a general out- 

 cry against its use was made and resulted in 

 the Act of 23 Elizabeth, cap. 9, 'for the 

 abolishing of certain deceitful stuff' used in 

 the dyeing of cloth.' This Act was strength- 

 ened in 1597-8 by that ' for the better exe- 

 cution of a statute made 23 Elizabeth for the 

 abolishing of logwood or blockwood in the 

 dyeing of cloth, wool or yarn.' ' Blockwood 

 or blackwood is said to have been a feigned 

 name under which the dyers clandestinely 

 used the prohibited logwood.^ Under these 

 Acts we find a number of Surrey dyers charged 

 with using logwood in Southwark and other 

 parts of the county. The first Surrey cases 

 however with which we are concerned are 

 those of three London dyers who had been 

 using logwood at Kingston. James Austen 

 of St. Benet's near Paul's Wharf, and Rich- 

 ard Rogers of St. Peter's near Paul's Wharf, 

 were each charged in 1584 with having dyed 

 a thousand dozen of knit hose at this Surrey 

 town ; * Ralph Roodes, also of St. Peter's 

 parish, with the dyeing of a hundred pieces of 

 mockadoes at the same place.^ In the two 

 latter cases the informer apparently failed to 

 appear in support of his charge and the ac- 

 cused were dismissed. Many of these dyers 



1 Early Chan. Proc. bdle. 45, No. 260. 

 " Stat. 39 & 40 Eliz. cap. 11. 

 ' Bancroft, 0« Permanent Cohms, ii. 340. 

 * Exch. K. R. Mem. R. East. z6 Eliz. 108, 

 109. « Ibid. I09d. 



would seem to have been engaged in an 

 itinerant trade at this time, although from the 

 enormous fines which were usually claimed 

 from them it may be assumed that they were 

 reputed to be in a large way of business. A 

 case in which a Surrey dyer was accused of 

 using logwood in the practice of his art within 

 the city of London is that of Richard Alder- 

 sey of St. Mary Overy's, Southwark, who 

 was summoned to answer for this off'ence in 

 1591.° Paul Pinchon, or Pynson, as he is 

 elsewhere called, a dyer of St. Olave's within 

 the borough, had to answer for the like offence 

 in the same year, but in his case it was alleged 

 to have been committed in his own neigh- 

 bourhood.^ He was summoned again in the 

 following year together with John Goodwyn, 

 Daniel Tyberkyn (Tybergam), and Peter 

 Hoblyn, all Southwark dyers.^ Of these 

 Pynson, Hoblyn, and Tyberkyn appear 

 amongst the aliens in St. Olave's, assessed in 

 1593, ^"*^ •'^ ^'1 three cases the assessments 

 are comparatively high.' Amongst the arti- 

 cles which they are said to have dyed with 

 the illegal logwood are grograms, mockadoes, 

 buffines, sayes and knit woollen hose. To 

 this list may be added rashes, frizadoes, wad- 

 mols, and flannels, of which, including the 

 previously mentioned articles, John Dracone, 

 another alien dyer of the Borough, is said in 

 1597 to have dyed 7,000 pieces with log- 

 wood.'" As the fine for each piece was ^$ 

 he must have been a wealthy man if the total 

 could ever have been exacted from him. At 

 the same time the like off"ence was charged 

 against William Goodwyn (Woodwyn) of 

 Southwark,*' who was again accused in 1 600.'* 

 Daniel Tyberkyn was a constant off'ender 

 and appears again in the Exchequer in 1 602,'' 

 twice in 1604,'* and again in 1611.'^ In 

 1602, although still described as of the 

 Borough, the information against him was of 

 having used logwood a hundred several times 

 at Battersea in the dyeing of cloths of woollen 

 and silken yarn or thread, stockings, grograms, 

 buffines, etc. As the penalty for each off'ence 

 was ;^20, the total fine which he was alleged 



8 Ibid. Mich. 33 Eliz. 465. 



' Ibid. 463. 



8 Ibid. East. 34 Eliz. 152-4. 



3 Kirk, Aliens in London (Hug. Sec. Publ. x.), 

 ii. 445, 446. 



>» Exch. K. R. Mem. R. Mich. 39 Eliz. 368. 

 For some account of these different fabrics see The 

 Drapers^ Dictionary. 



" Exch. K. R. Mem. R. Mich. 39 Eliz. 367. 



12 Ibid. Mich. 42 Eliz. 84. 



" Ibid. Mich. 44 Eliz. 206. 



" Ibid. Hil. I Jas. I. 97 ; Trin. 2 Jas. I. 41. 



" Ibid. Mich. 9 Jas. I. 455. 



365 



