A HISTORY OF SURREY 



to have incurred was no less than ;^2,ooo. 

 In September 1618 he appears to have been 

 living in the close of St. Saviour's, Southwark, 

 and to have been of thirty years' continuance. 

 He is then said to have been born in Frank- 

 furt in High Germany, and was hving with 

 his son-in-law, Peter Coege, also a dyer, born 

 at Lille in Flanders. Rowland Vancke from 

 the States of Holland was his partner, and he 

 had two foreigners in his service, Jacob 

 Delene from Cleves and Nicholas Lowys from 

 Normandy.* 



It is indeed most probable that in few of 

 the native arts and industries was the influence 

 of the foreigners who migrated into England 

 in the sixteenth century more felt than in 

 that of dyeing. Yet so far as those returns 

 of aliens in London and its neighbourhood, 

 which have been already printed by the 

 Huguenot Society, show, the number of alien 

 dyers, so described, that were dwelling in 

 Southwark during the century, was small. 

 John Baptist Semyn, a Genoese and the king's 

 dyer, who was made a denizen in 1533, 

 dwelt in Southwark.* In 1567 one French- 

 man only appears there as a dyer^ ; in May 

 1 57 1 there is one Burgundian in the parish 

 of St. Thomas's Hospital * and one Dutchman 

 in that of St. Olave's who are called dyers." 

 In November of the latter year four Dutch 

 dyers are returned in St. Olave's ' and one 

 Frenchman in St. Thomas's.' In 1582-3 

 there are only three foreign dyers for the 

 whole of Southwark,* and in 1583 only one 

 Dutchman in St. Olave's,' and another in 

 St. Saviour's.'" Perhaps we may assume that 

 these were all master men, and that many of 

 the aliens whose occupations are not given 

 in the various lists may have been employed 

 in the industry. But in 1618 there is a great 

 increase in the number of dyers, five in St. 

 Saviour's and no less than twelve in St. Olave's, 

 who had come from various parts of the con- 

 tinent, from France, Germany, and the Low 

 Countries." 



But besides the foreign dyers settled in 

 Southwark there were English ones engaged 

 in the same industry. Some of them more- 



1 Cooper, Foreigners Resident in London (Camden 

 Soc. old ser. vol. 82), p. 90 ; from S.P. Dom. 

 Jas. I. xcix. 23. 



' W. Page, F.S.A., Denizalions and Naturaliza- 

 tions (Hug. Soc. Publ. viii.), iliv. 



3 Kirk, op. cit. i. 351. » Ibid. i. 462. 



' Ibid. i. 471. 



• Ibid. ii. 99, 103, 107, III. 



' Ibid. ii. 1 15. 



« Ibid. ii. 292, 293, 295. 



» Ibid. ii. 328. '« Ibid. ii. 331. 



" Cooper, op. cit. 90, 94-7. 



366 



over were able to amass considerable fortunes 

 thereby. Philip Henslowe we know before 

 he became the lessee of the Rose Theatre on 

 the Bankside combined the business of a dyer 

 with that of a maker of starch. William 

 Gawghton or Gawton of the parish of St. 

 Olave, Southwark, dyer, was seised of two- 

 thirds of a moiety of the manor of Nutfield 

 at his death on 20 June 1593." His son 

 William, described as a citizen and dyer of 

 London, had acquired the remaining third of 

 this moiety before his death on 27 February 

 1609—10, as well as a messuage and 400 acres 

 of land in the parishes of Carshalton, Walling- 

 ton and Beddington, and the moiety of six 

 messuages or cottages in Chipping Wycombe, 

 CO. Bucks. That he too carried on his busi- 

 ness in Southwark is probable from the fact 

 that his wife and children are stated to have 

 been living there when the inquisition was 

 taken on 16 March following his death." 

 Another citizen and dyer of London who be- 

 longed to Southwark was John Paine of the 

 parish of St. Saviour. His will dated 17 

 August 1608'* shows him to have been a 

 well-to-do man with a number of valued 

 trinkets to distribute amongst his relations. 



The proof supplied in the two latter in- 

 stances that some of the English dyers in 

 Southwark were free of the city company, and 

 the inference therefrom that there was a 

 close connection between the dyeing industry 

 there and that of London, is further borne 

 out by the terms of a commission issued on 

 23 November 161 1, to inquire into abuses 

 alleged to have been committed in dyeing and 

 putting to sale silk called 'cole blacke silkeor 

 London heavy-waight silke,' by silk dyers and 

 the deputies of one Christopher Hamond, who 

 had under colour of reforming these abuses 

 lately obtained the king's letters patent.'" The 

 abuse complained of was that of increasing 

 the weight of the silk by the addition of gum 

 in the process of dyeing," and the commis- 

 sioners were to prosecute their inquiries not 

 only in the city of London but in the counties 

 of Middlesex and Surrey. 



Connected with the industry of dyeing was 

 that of grinding and preparing the dye-woods 

 for the dyers. This was done by means of 

 mills of which there seem to have been no 

 small number along the course of the little 



1' Inq. p.m. ser. 2, ccxlvii. No. 21 ; see Man- 

 ning and Bray, Hist, of Surrey, ii. 271. 



" Inq. p.m. ser. 2, cccxiv. No. 144. 



" Prob. P.C.C. 29 August 1608 {mndcbamk, 

 74) ; see Surr. Arch. Coll. xiii. 187. 



" Exch. K. R. Spec. Com. 5017. 



" Cunningham, Growth of English Industry and 

 Commerce, ii. 165. 



