124 Bevel-Gauge. 



and one-fourth inches deep, instead of twelve. Heavy tin 

 strips (Fig. 41), three-fourths of an inch wide, should be 

 tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach one-fourth 

 sf an inch above the shoulder. In case there is no rabbet 

 (Fig. 38, e), these tins are nailed to the side of the hive so as 

 to project one-fourth inch above the side. These are to bear 

 the frames, and are convenient as they prevent the frames 

 from becoming glued to the hive. We are thus able to loosen 

 the frames without jarring the bees. I would not have hives 

 without such tins, though some apiarists, among whom is Mr. 

 James Heddon, of this State, whose rank as a successful 

 apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection to 

 them is cost, and the liability of the frames to move when the 

 hive is moved. But with their use we are not compelled to 

 pry the frames loose, and are not so likely to irritate the bees 

 whUe making an examination of the contents of the hive, 

 which arguments are conclusive with me. 



Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has 

 not a buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the 

 style of making common dry-goods boxes. In this case, the 

 sides not rabbeted should project by (Fig. 36), else the comers 

 will have to be stopped up where they were rabbeted. In case 

 we do not rabbet, either the ends or sides may project by. 

 In such cases many rabbet the corners so as to make a stronger 

 joint. 



Tho mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, 

 and unite them by a mitre-joint (Fig. 41). This looks a little 

 better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is 

 difficult to form accurate joints, and as everything about the hive 

 should be accurate and unifoem, this style is not to be 

 recommended to the general apiarist. To mitre with a hand- 

 saw, unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect mitre- 

 box, and, even then, much care is required to secure 

 perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have 

 only to make a carrier as follows : Take two boards (Fig. 39, 

 a, 6), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as 

 though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be 

 sure that they form a perfect right angle. Then bevel the 

 ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third board 

 (Fig. 39, c), iirmly nailed to the others. We thus have a 

 triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make 



